The World Atlas of Wine Sixth Edition
By Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson
Published by Mitchell Beasley
Price: Around $70

Review by Greville Havenhand

One bright day in 1970 I was at lunch at the London cellars of Deinhard of Koblenz.  The first pre-prandial glasses of Sekt were being finished when in came a young wine writer with a number of beautifully produced maps of wine regions.  Little did I know that I was witnessing the start of a publishing legend.  The writer was Hugh Johnson and the maps were the first art work for his "World Atlas of Wine", to be published the next year.  It was to become a wine classic – an essential reference book and one of those beautifully produced books which are a joy in themselves.

In thirty-six years the wine world has changed beyond recognition. Who knew or cared about Australia or Chile?  Wine from New Zealand?  Didn't they only produce lamb and butter? Over these years the Atlas has been revised and reissued. In 2001 that jewel among wine experts, Jancis Robinson MW joined with Hugh Johnson to collaborate on an updated edition- the fifth. What a combination, the two brightest stars in the wine-writing firmament combining their skills to illuminate and entertain.

Now we have the sixth. In the six years since the last edition the wine world has moved on even further and so has the atlas, although at first glance it seems to be stuck in the past, with detailed maps of every Burgundy Cru vineyard and minutely divided maps of Bordeaux.  There are some French updates, including an excellent map of the terrain of St. Emilion, although the standard maps with wineries marked according to their classification is, at the moment, out dated because of the legal battles over that classification.  Areas like Toro in Spain, the Pelopennese, Constantia in South Africa and the Limestone Coast in Australia are represented.  The spread of wine into Asia brings a small section on China, a nod towards Japan and such places as Thailand and India. I particularly liked the detailed maps of individual sections of the Napa Valley.

It is not only the maps and the lavish illustrations that impress. The sections on wine making, a year in the vineyard, terroir and the most common grapes are a good introduction to the novice.  With two such writers as Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson the prose is elegant, the insights crisp and, as one would expect, always authoritative. For those who have previous editions, put them on one side and add this to your Christmas list. For those who haven't, do likewise.

Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey
By Efisio Farris
Published by Rizzoli
RRP £39.95

Review by Darryl Beeson

"Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey" is an insightful book, written from the precise viewpoint of Italy's Sardinian traditions. "Little has been written about the cuisine of Sardinia," says food purist and national authority John Mariani. "Farris, who is chef/owner of the uniquely Sardinian restaurant Arcodoro brings into focus the variety and history of the food and wine culture of this still wild and beautiful island where herbs like sweet myrtle perfume the land, and little fuss is made about cooking except to make it with love and respect."

Restaurateurs Efisio and Francesco Farris placed the island of Sardinia on the map, at least in Texas, as they gained respect over the past couple of decades for their rustic, but pleasing cuisine. Their menu specialties include thinly sliced carpaccio, lusty risottos, whole fish baked in their brick ovens, wood-fired pizzas and their so-called 'Ultimate Ravioli.' Both brothers, Efisio and Francesco, will likely toast the new book with their signature Grapparita, a grappa based Margarita. Cheers!

Michelin recently launched a new 'Green Guide to The Wine Regions of France' ($21.95 paperback). The bright green book is easy to spot. Small enough to slide into an overcoat's pocket, the 384 pages don't miss any details.

To make the most of these tours through the vineyards, the guide also has a selection of over 500 restaurants and guesthouses as well as 400 wine merchants, co-operatives and estates in its 'Directory' and 'Shopping Guide'. Divided into three chapters, this practical and user-friendly tourist guide contains all the information you need, not only to learn about wine and understand the unique qualities of specific vineyards, but also to organise pleasant walks in the great wine regions of France. For ease of reference there is a map of France and a table of 'Vineyards at a glance' on the inside covers.

This first chapter gives practical and simple advice on choosing your wine, buying, storing, talking about wine, fairs and markets and the 'Fêtes du vin'. The second chapter reveals the secrets of wine with useful information on the natural features of the vineyard, wine-makers' methods and expert advice on serving and tasting. Important factors such as soil, climate, all details from the vine to the bottle, varieties and appellations, wine tasting, a short history of wine, serving wine and more. The third chapter takes you on a tour of the 14 main wine regions of France including their landscape, heritage and wines. It also features a wide variety of activities and places of interest to enjoy along the way.

'The Michelin Green Guide to the Wine Regions of France' is the ideal companion for anyone wishing to combine the pleasures of discovering wine, with a leisurely exploration of the French countryside. Catering for all travellers, from novice wine lovers to wine-making enthusiasts, this guide not only reveals the secrets of wine, but also takes you on a journey through the most important wine regions of France, and includes numerous wine orientated activities and places of interest, including walks through the vineyards, regional markets, wine festivals and wine museums.

Each of the following 14 chapters focuses on a particular wine region. There is an introduction to the region, natural features of the vineyards, grape varieties and regional wines, a directory listing restaurants, charming hotels and guesthouses in all price categories as well as a list of specialist shops on or just off the route, a comprehensive shopping guide with details on regional wines (addresses of wine associations or 'bureaux interprofessionnels des vins'), local wine characteristics, prices and tips on storage, buying wines (addresses of wine merchants, co-operatives and estates), festivals (dates of local wine related 'fêtes'), a variety of activities (recreational, cultural, sporting, cookery courses, etc.) to enjoy whilst discovering the region, plus a detailed color coded map of the region showing the vineyards and the suggested route.

More details are at www.michelin.co.uk. Visit www.amazon.com where both new and used Michelin Green Guides are available for as low as $15.

Palm Beach, FL: Bacchus Press Ltd announces the publication of James Gabler's "An Evening with Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson: Dinner, Wine and Conversation".. The cover illustration is a reproduction of John Trumbull's "Declaration of Independence," and the back cover carries comments by Walter Isaacson, author of "Benjamin Franklin: An American Life," and wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. ISBN: 0961352566, $29.95. The book is available at all bookstores through the Ingram Book Company and from Amazon.com.
 

In "An Evening with Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson," the reader, through a dream sequence, is transported back in time to 18th century Paris. In the comfort of Jefferson's residence on the Champs-Elysées, Franklin and Jefferson tell in their own words the most interesting stories of their lives. There are nearly nine hundred citations of authority to support all of Franklin and Jefferson's comments.

They talk about their early years, their embarrassments, disappointments, intrigues, travels, social activities in London and Paris, the women in their lives, the libel and slander they suffered at the hands of their political enemies, slavery, religion, their opinions of and associations with George Washington, John Adams, John Paul Jones, Marquis de Lafayette, the charismatic Edward Bancroft, a British spy who was Franklin's secretary and friend, and much more.

When told of the acts of terror involving 9/11, Jefferson compares it to his experience while president in dealing with the Barbary pirate states who captured our merchant ships, enslaved the crews, and held them for ransom. When informed of the Abu Ghraib torture scandals, they discuss and contrast the treatment of prisoners during the Revolutionary War.

Franklin and Jefferson were both wine lovers, and wine is a topic of conversation throughout the evening. One of the many wine subjects discussed is whether the bottle of 1787 Lafite engraved with the initials "Th. J." and sold by Christie's at auction for $156,450 (the world's most expensive bottle of wine), was ever owned by Jefferson.

Anita Baldi, Director of Marketing
Bacchus Press Ltd
(561) 832-2265
http://www.thomasjefferson.net

The Emperor of Wine The Rise of Robert M. Parker Jr. and the Reign of American Taste by Elin McCoy.

Robert M. Parker, Jr. is the world's most influential wine critic. Over the last 25 years, Parker has transformed the international wine world with his bi-monthly newsletter, The Wine Advocate, which has more than 40,000 subscribers in over 37 countries. It exerts the single most significant influence on consumers' wine buying habits and impacts the way wine is being made, marketed, and sold in every wine country in the world from the U.S. to France to Australia. Profiled in countless magazines and newspapers, Parker stands at the center of a heated controversy: Is he a passionate lover of wine who is largely responsible for its vastly improved quality, or is he, as others claim, killing tradition? Now, wine veteran Elin McCoy tackles such questions, chronicling the rise of this American lawyer turned supreme wine judge in THE EMPEROR OF WINE: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr., and the Reign of American Taste.

The first book to deconstruct the mythic palate and brilliant entrepeneurship of the self-styled consumer advocate who changed the world's outlook on wine, THE EMPEROR OF WINE is the tale of a classic American visionary-independent, creative, passionate, unstoppable-attaining immense influence and wealth on his own terms. A wine insider herself, McCoy gives readers an intimate view of the strong personalities, feuds, controversies, payoffs, and secrets of the wine world, explaining how wine reputations are made, how and why wine critics agree and disagree, and revealing details of the ways wines are judged, promoted, made, and sold today. This engrossing story shows how a world that once was the province of gentlemen's clubs and stuffed shirts turned into a sensual hobby for the middle class, creating a luxury industry bent on making money on a world-wide scale. With a backdrop equally rich in detail, from the refined but brutal rivalries in the wine making capitals of Burgundy and Bordeaux to the extraordinary blossoming of ambitious, wealthy wine producers in Northern California, THE EMPEROR OF WINE is the definitive book on Robert Parker's upward climb and the inner workings of today's wine industry.

Edited by Darryl Beeson

The Wines of the Napa Valley

Families of the Vine: Seasons Among the Winemakers of Southwest France
By Michael Sanders
Published by Harpers Collins
Hardcover $24.95

In 2001, Michael Sanders spent a year abroad creating an eloquent portrait of rural life in the small town of Les Arques, France; a story he told through the seasons of a local restaurant and its patrons. From Here, You Can't See Paris was called a "complex, rich textural tapestry of everyday life" that was "honest, funny and endearing" by BBC-TV personality Ken Hom, and "a good and leathery year abroad," by Kirkus Reviews. After spending some time back in the States, Sanders decided to return to southern France to complete his journey. This time, he chose to focus on the natural complement to the delectable foods of the region: the wines. The result was FAMILIES OF THE VINE: Seasons Among the Winemakers of Southwest France, a rare book which explains for the layman the intricacies of winemaking, through an intimate look at three French families and their vineyards.

FAMILIES OF THE VINE invites the reader into the working lives of three families of the land whose sole crop is the grapes grown in their vineyards, grapes from which they all make very good, yet quite different, wine, as they have been doing for more than four generations. FAMILIES loosely follows them throughout the winemaking year , from the hopes of spring, through the drama of a summer drought and heat wave, to the mad rush of the fall harvest, and then into the wine barns heady with the smells of fermentation and the reek of oak aging barrels.

Rich with the history and tradition of French winemaking, FAMILIES OF THE VINE is told through the voices of the winemakers and their friends, from a barrelmaker in Bordeaux to a sommelier in a one-star restaurant. Whether puzzling out the maddeningly imprecise French concept of terroir, interviewing a millionaire wine "playboy", or taking a gentle swipe at the "science" of wine tasting, the author's engaging, non-technical style and respectful skepticism are a refreshing departure.

Written for the reader who likes food and cooking, likes to try new dishes, restaurants, and wine, but is not an expert in any of these areas, FAMILIES OF THE VINE will appeal to both the amateur and the enthusiast.

About the Author

Michael Sanders is the author of The Yard: Building a Destroyer at the Bath Iron Works, a portrait of shipbuilders in one of the last bastions of industrial tradition in America and, From Here, You Can't See Paris: Seasons of a French Village and Its Restaurant, which took him to Les Arques, a village in southwest France (pop.149), to experience the tradition of the rural food culture and the people who make it possible. He and his family live in midcoast Maine, from where he is launching his fourth project, The Whey We Were: Travels in Search of Cheese in France and America.

Edited by Darryl Beeson
 

By Garrett Oliver
Published by Ecco
Paperback $16.95

Every year, Americans consume twelve times more beer than wine, yet most are familiar with the blandest brews, not the authentic originals. Real beers, made with traditional ingredients and techniques, can transform everyday meals from dull to extraordinary.

The Brewmaster's Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food is an exciting look at a mealtime staple – one that will revolutionize the way Americans think about their beers. Now in paperback, this is the book to have on hand in your kitchen: your guide to bringing this under -appreciated beverage to the stature it rightfully deserves on America's tables. Written by the man Gourmet magazine calls a "passionate epicure and talented alchemist", The Brewmaster's Table is lushly illustrated with Denton Tillman's gorgeous photographs of the world's finest breweries, their excellent beers, and the artisans who produce them.

"If you've tasted only mass-market beer, I'm, afraid you haven't actually tasted beer at all," says author Garrett Oliver, the Brewmaster of the award-winning Brooklyn Brewery . "Real beer is to mass-market beer like a loaf of fresh baked bread is to store-bought 'Wonder' bread, he claims. "My feeling is that both wine and beer reach their best expression with food, but that beer is by far the most versatile partner. That's because real beers have an incredible range of flavors – all of which, when appropriately matched, make for a perfect complement to specific dishes."

Best of all, as Oliver points out, at less than $5 a bottle, these real beers are "affordable luxuries." And thanks to the revolution in taste and dining that has swept the country during the last 20 years, these real beers are widely available as never before in America's supermarkets, specialty beer stores, pubs, clubs, hotels and restaurants, from diners to four-star establishments.

In this informative tour of the world's most savory breweries, The Brewmaster's Table leads readers through an entertaining account of more than 50 distinct styles of beer from around the world -- what Oliver describes as beer's "full peacock display of flavor".

Consider some of Oliver's savory real beer/real food pairings detailed in the book:

*A crisp Belgian wheat beer with a simple summer salad;
*A tangy German pilsner to complement spicy fish tacos;
*A malty British pale ale to match a porcini risotto with foie gras;
*A hoppy American barley wine to accompany a Vermont artisanal cheddar;
*A rich Imperial Stout to sip with a dark chocolate brownie dessert.

Edited by Darryl Beeson

Under the Texan Sun
The Best Recipes from Lone Star Wineries
By Rhonda Cloos

Paperback $17.95
Distributed by National Book Network

When you think of the foremost grape growers and exquisite wine producers in the world, Italy, France and even California come to mind. All have achieved their reputations for great wines with very good reason. There is now one more place to add to the growing list of respectable wine countries: Texas. That's right—the Lone Star State is rapidly joining the elite group, making a reputation of its own as an exceptional wine country, and is the 5th largest producing wine state in the U.S.

But who can think of Texas without thoughts of tantalizing food coming to mind? A trip would not be complete without a stop at one of the many steakhouses or fabulous restaurants that make Texas an elite and varied travel destination. Fortunately, this vast and breathtaking land is filled with wonderful wineries that offer their own recipes, sure to complement the taste buds of anyone, whether a wine connoisseur or just a curious traveler.

Rhonda Cloos has put together the consummate guide to Texas wineries, accompanied by recipes created to complement the individual wines and bring out the best qualities of both. UNDER THE TEXAN SUN: THE BEST RECIPES FROM LONE STAR WINERIES serves up over 100 innovative recipes along with comprehensive guidelines for pairing wine and food. The wonderful collection features specialties from the heart and homes of Texas vintners, a section on recipes from Texas' top chefs, and offers insider's tips on wine tasting and winery tours.

Take a look into Texas' wine industry, and discover the connection between the wine, food and people of the Lone Star state that have been embraced by chefs and wine enthusiasts from all over the country. Organized by winery, UNDER THE TEXAN SUN contains recipes for every meal, complete with sections such as Wine & Cheese, Recipes from the Author's Private Collection, and Wine & Chocolate. Readers will endlessly reference UNDER THE TEXAN SUN for every dinner party or romantic evening at home to add sophisticated Texas flair to their meals and look like a wine connoisseur at the same time.

Rhonda Cloos has written dozens of articles for national and regional magazines including a piece in International Sommelier that covered the flourishing West Texas wine industry. She is also the author of Texas Food Companies, and makes her home in Austin, Texas.

Under the Texan Sun
The Best Recipes from the Lone Star Wineries
By Rhonda Cloos
March 2005 * 1-58979-158-4 * 256 pages * 6x9 * $17.95 pb. * 28 wine labels * 250 recipes
 
Edited by Darryl Beeson

MON DOCTEUR LE VIN
By Gaston Derys and Raoul Dufy

An Artful Book on Wine Originally Published in Paris

Released by the Henry McBride Foundation
Price £19.95 available from Barnes & Noble, Borders, Amazon and www.henrymcbride .org.

NORWALK, CT, November 5, 2003 — "Mon Docteur Le Vin" (My Doctor, Wine), originally published in Paris in 1936, is being released in an English translation for modern-day enjoyment by the Henry McBride Foundation, a non-profit that benefits young artists. A humorous reflection on the social pleasures of wine and its apparently healthful properties, "Mon Docteur Le Vin" entertains, amuses and visually delights the reader with Raoul Dufy's vivacious watercolor illustrations. A foreword by Paul Lukacs — educator, author and wine columnist — establishes the historical context of this small volume, written for promotional purposes at the time. "This would be a pretty piece of propaganda were it not for the fact that the book plays a small part in a much larger story, that of the changing face of wine in French and indeed all Western culture," he writes.

Light-hearted yet pithy text by Gaston Derys, a French writer and director of the Paris Museum of Design in the 1920s and 1930s, the book provides a quaint glance at upper middle class French society and wine's image during this era. The author quotes many medical professionals, who favored an amiable glass of wine as a healthful tonic. "Wine makes our mood joyous, sharpens our judgement, and makes us inclined to be affectionate by delighting the senses, warming the heart, and stimulating the brain," states Professor Pousson of the School of Medicine in Bordeaux.

Named for the pre-eminent American art critic of the 20th century, the Henry McBride Foundation co-published the book with Yale University Press. An ideal gift for the holidays, "Mon Docteur Le Vin" is available nationally at Barnes & Noble Bookstores, Borders Books, Amazon.com and through the foundation web site at www.henrymcbride.org. The suggested retail price is $19.95. Other items, such as note cards and ceramics featuring the original "Mon Docteur Le Vin" artwork by Raoul Dufy, are also available. All profits from the sale of this book are used in the support of opportunities for young artists throughout the world and children's charities.

SLOW FOOD GUIDE TO ITALIAN WINES 2003
Published by Gambero Rosso
Price: $28.50

The front cover sub-title reads 'A Guide to the World of Italian wine for experts and wine lovers'

1,884 Producers
13,336 Wines
250 Three Glass Awards

Referring to awards, this edition won the 'Annual Guide Award' from the highly respected 'Prix du Champagne Lanson'.

This giant paperback is the largest, most comprehensive guide on Italian wines currently in circulation. It is for serious wine folk, meaning professionals, restaurateurs and dedicated Italian wine lovers with available funds. I stress this last point since the most significant omission in this knowledge-packed volume is the actual cost of the wines under consideration. Instead numbers are given alongside each wine which correlate with an unsatisfactory list of 6 price ranges on page 14. This leads to difficulties when making comparisons, as a wine numbered 4 can be anything from $18 - $27 in price.

The 840 pages make the book far too long for any reviewer to read in its entirety and, in any case, it is meant more as a work of reference. Hence I selected 3 favorite Italian wine producers to check their entries: Michele Chiarlo from Piedmont; Bertani famed for its Amarone and Valpolicella; and Fazi Battaglia renowned for its popular wines from the Marche.

The comprehensive index quickly indicated that Michele Chiarlo could be found on page 47. It begins ' Michele Chiarlo, the owner of this major Montferrato estate, has carved out a solid niche for his winery at the peak of Piedmont winemaking' and lists 13 of his wines including 4 vintages of Barolo Cerequio 95-98, each vintage being awarded 3 glasses -so far so good.

Next a search for Bertani offered page 304, which lists 10 wines including the attractive dry white 'Due Uve' but the wine is priced far too high at 4. Its prestigious Amarone della Valpolicella receives 2 red glasses which page 14 tells us is 'very good to excellent wine selected for final tastings'. One wonders if that wine was decanted and allowed to breathe for 2 hours in advance of tasting. Which procedure would surely have led to 3 glasses.

Finally Fazi Battaglia was found on page 613 with the comment 'this year, Fazi Battaglia presented another great range of wines, including a number of well-made reds, as well as its celebrated customary Verdicchios.'

What more could one ask? All 3 producers were found easily and with reasonably accurate comments. The layout of the book is a bit boring. There aren't any illustrations and the page design is reminiscent of many an Internet page. But to be fair, it is a reference book and my trial search worked. Italian Wines 2003 is a must for the really serious followers of Italian wine but surely the task could be made a little lighter and brighter.

And just one footnote. 'Slow Food Editore' to put it in Italian as on the cover, is rather interesting. The actual Slow Food Movement claims to be the world's most unusual food club and it is all thanks to McDonalds. When in 1986 news leaked out that the burger billionaires were seeking consent to open a fast food premises at the foot of Rome's historic Spanish steps, an Italian called Carlo Petrini founded The Slow Food Movement to counter the fast food culture. Today it is an international movement with some 30,000 members in 15 countries and even publishes a full colour magazine called 'Slow'.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

Sonoma Wine Tour
The Civilized Traveler's Guide

By Mildred Howie
Published by The Wine Appreciation Guild
Paperback US$12.95

For wine lovers intending to visit the Sonoma wine region this book is a must. Even widely experienced travelers, like this reviewer, will benefit greatly by investing a mere $12.95, for 'Sonoma Wine Tour' is not just another wine book but a lucid and comprehensive guide to much that Sonoma wine country has to offer. The publishers made an excellent choice in author, Millie Howie, who has virtually a lifetime's experience of Sonoma and its wine community, garnered at the very time of the region's rapid rise to fame.

In July 2001, feeling a little pleased with myself, I booked a Friday night stay in an apparently folksy B&B in Sonoma. It promised charm and character and an attentive host. It delivered all it promised, but imagine my horror on arriving there to find its front door just 30 feet from Route 101: a simple fact that the web-site accidentally overlooked. As the hour was late I had little choice other than to continue with the booking, but had I possessed Millie's informative guide the mistake could have been avoided.

I now, as they say, have to declare an interest. There are 3 regular contributors to www.wineontheweb.com and they are the entertaining Darryl Beeson, the immaculate Millie Howie and the permanently jet-lagged Andrew Jones. Features Editor, Helen Austyn, occasionally keeps the two male writers in line by pointing out that she never has to correct Millie's contributions. As one who considers himself more of a researcher than a writer, I can now see that Millie is both a fine researcher and an excellent writer.

'Sonoma Wine Tour' would be yet another guidebook without its structure. Its opening page gives so much information in so few words. Millie's succinct writing makes points clearly and simply. An excellent example of her style comes with a visual comparison of Sonoma's size with the neighboring Napa Valley. Sonoma County with its million -plus acres is more than twice as large and many times more complex. Physically its shape is rectangular, nearly as broad as it is long, encompassing within its boundaries a large part of the North Coast Ranges on its eastern side, and a long, rugged Pacific coastline on the west. She tells us, on page 16, that Healdsburg is a great walking town, with a numbered tree walk, and a tour of historic homes. A short walk from the Plaza is the world-recognized Sonoma County Wine Library. That claim can be supported by at least one wine writer from across the pond who has received the most generous help from that small but august institution.

The page on Guernville, Sebastopol, Russian River Valley gives an enlightening explanation of the origin of the name Russian River, an appellation which is rapidly gaining prominence for consistent Pinot Noir. Millie explains that originally, to the native Pomo Indian tribes, the Russian River was known as Shabaikai – the snake. The Russians, who established two communities on the Sonoma Coast in 1812, referred to the river as Slavianka - pretty Russian girl. Later Mexican settlers referred to it as El Rio Russo, giving it the name that finally stuck.

So much for Sonoma and its heritage. What about the restaurants? There are 28 pages full of a great variety of them from Chateau Souverain's Café at the Winery, a truly inspiring restaurant with numerous opportunities for food and wine pairings, to a familiar favorite amongst locals called Equus. Millie advises that there probably is no more dazzling wine display in Sonoma County than the Wall of Wine at Equus with nearly 300 bottles ……kept current and exciting by sommelier Larry Van Aalst.

Accommodation is catered for with reviews of 45 hotels, inns and B&B's. Amongst my preferences would be Fern Grove Cottages, walking distance from entrancing downtown Guernville, priced between $79-219, and Hotel Healdsburg which has every 21^st century amenity possible, including 6 feet soaking tubs. Chef Charlie Palmer is a former winner of the James Beard award for the Best Chef in New York.  Prices here vary from $205-450.

But we mustn't forget Sonoma is about wine and 105 wineries are listed in simple, helpful terms. The list starts with Adler Fells where sometimes visitors are invited to drive a golf ball into the valley below. It also includes Raymond Burr Vineyards where you can outwit Perry Mason, for sadly he died before the first vintage was ready. Foppiano Vineyards with the world's oldest winemaker, 92 year old Lou Foppiano, is an attractive alternative and Geyser Peak one that is producing consistently fine wines across the range.

On the other hand you could visit Family Wineries at 9200 Sonoma Highway and taste the superb Nelson Estate Cabernet Franc. Finally visit one of the larger wineries at St Francis where Merlot really is king.

The only downside to the book is the artwork, some of which indulges the popular misconception that wine is inextricably linked with bacchanalian carousing or gentlemen sporting Edwardian moustaches. I can't sing and I don't have a moustache.

Review by Andrew Jones, Editor

Man cannot live by wine alone. Serving pitcher drinks, including wine-based Sangria, can be an effortless way to entertain while still having fun at your own party. Maybe a pitcher of Summer Hummers, French Flirts, or full strength and pre-chilled Martinis is your potential to breaking the ice. There are even recipes in the book for flavored ice cubes so the pitcher doesn't dilute over time. With more than 150 recipes, including non-alcohol variations, this book is a useful reference.

Author Sharon Tyler Herbst is an award-winning author of seventeen books, including the best-selling "The New Food Lover's Companion." For more information, her website is www.sharontylerherbst.com.

Review by Darryl Beeson

The Newman's Own Organics Guide to a Good Life

By Nell Newman with Joseph D'Agnese
Published by Villard
Paperback $14.95

In the wine world, there is increased interest in producers that embrace organic practices. For newcomers to the organic movement, this book is a perfect introduction, encompassing all aspects of life as they relate to environmental consciousness.

Author Nell Newman, daughter of actors Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward, had an early introduction to natural foods at their rural Connecticut home. Rather than being preachy and somber, her tone is upbeat and brings novices easily into the fold. There are plenty of tips and resources within the book, as well as a bit of humor.

As far as praise for the book, actor Paul Newman says "Buy this book! My daughter wrote it and that's good enough for me." Newman's Own Organic Guide to a Good Life: Simple Measures That Benefit You and the Place You Live (Villard, paperback $14.95)

Reviewed by Darryl Beeson

Malcolm Kushner has done the often too stuffy world of wine a favor by writing the long awaited book "Vintage Humor for Wine Lovers." To this point, wine humor was generally limited to an occasional cartoon in The New Yorker, too often about a wine snob.

The drinking of wine has induced smiles since the beginnings of civilization. Kushner offers hundreds of funny wine thoughts in a Henny Youngman delivery throughout the book. For example, he presents a three columned chart of ambiguous wine descriptors for situations when you are called upon to describe a wine. Pick three random numbers between zero and fifteen and the result could be "a rustic, sensuous titration" or "amusingly precocious aroma." Who among you will challenge your judgment if they don't know what you said?

There are witty comebacks to use with rude or incompetent restaurant employees, humorous toasts to use when the need arises, and much more. He writes of a little girl watching her father dress for a formal wine-tasting party. As her dad donned his tuxedo, she warned "Daddy, you shouldn't wear that suit." "Why not?" he asked. The little girl replied, "It always gives you a headache the next morning."

Says author Kushner, "Sparkling wine and sparkling wit. They go together like, well, wine and wit." You can give this gift of laughter (paperback, 168 pages, and $9.95 US) by calling 831-425-4839 or by emailing mk@kushnergroup.com. Volume discounts are available.

Review by Darryl Beeson

By Joe Borrello
Paperback US$15

Author Joe Borrello, (also author of "Recipes From the Wineries of the Great Lakes"), in his most recent book "Ask the Wine Guy", writes much like a catechism or a website's FAQ. He details the most often asked questions, followed by concise, clear answers. The advantage here is that he answers the questions that you didn't know - until now - that you had.

The book covers simple questions such as how to select a wine to serve with certain dishes (no hard and fast rules, but general rules of thumb), if a guest brings a bottle of wine to your hosted dinner party, should it be served (unless they inquired earlier about the meal, it should be treated as a gift and not opened). The book deals with more complex questions as well. There are also some useful food recipes designed to work well with wine.

Joe Borrello is the executive director of Tasters Guild International (a wine and food appreciation society), and judges wines throughout the world. To obtain "Ask the Wine Guy" (Michael P. Spradlin, paperback, 162 pages, $15), ask your favorite book seller or call the publisher at 810-664-8406.

Review by Darryl Beeson

Published by Omega Arte
Hardback $75

Most wine books focus on the wine and the geography. "The Mystique of Barolo" by Maurizio Rosso and Chris Meier (coffee table sized hardback) captures 35 of the personalities that craft the northern Italian Nebbiolo grape into the elegant bottles marked Barolo. Italy is orchestrating an exciting new-world resurgence. This book spotlights one of the most important regions. There are colorful maps, vintage evaluations going back to 1868, 177 labels examined, and most importantly, revelations of the people that create the wine. In very limited distribution, the best way to acquire a copy of "The Mystique of Barolo" is to visit the website address www.ArtisanIdeas.com.

Review by Darryl Beeson

Former New York Times food critic Ruth Reichl's new book, "Comfort Me With Apples", could go under the diary category or the dairy section. Sure, it is a first person story from a food writer. It is also a poignant, honest glimpse into Reichl's fascinating earlier years, more Ashbury and Haight, than raspberry and quaint. Now editor of Gourmet magazine, her command of the language and her select recipes woven into this story of her middle years and of family dysfunctional, rivals the finest chef creations that she has reviewed over the years. Riveting and juicy from life's secrets, read the memoir "Comfort Me With Apples, More Adventures at the Table" with a lusty glass of red wine. Apples are alluring. Just ask Eve.

Review by Darryl Beeson

Death On The Douro
By Tony Aspler

Paperback Canadian $18.95
Hardcover US $19.95

Warwick Publishing Group, Toronto, Canada
Canadian Distributor: General Distribution Services, Etobicoke, Canada
Order Number (Ontario and Quebec 1-800-387-0141)
Order Number (North-western Ontario and all other provinces 1-800-387-0172)
US Distributor: LPC Group Chicago. Order Number 1-800-626-4330

Ezra Brant, renowned Canadian wine taster and writer (sound familiar?) is the chief protagonist in this drama on the Douro.  A cocktail of sleuthing and slurping, the book makes ideal holiday reading, especially if detective fiction is amongst your other passions – wine being naturally first and foremost.

All the quintessential features of the world of Port are here: the grape stomping, the stuffy British producer ('Absolutely right, old boy!'), the legendary Factory House and the mysterious drowning of Baron de Forrester in 1861. And all are intertwined with enough vinous name-dropping to satisfy the most ardent connoisseur.

Against this backdrop the story unfolds of Ezra Brant's journey to the Douro at his old friend Matthew Sykes's request.  Ostensibly, the invitation is to attend the 200^th celebrations of the Quinta do Santo Pedro, but in reality, to examine a series of inexplicable and bizarre incidents that seem to threaten the impending festivities.  And it all culminates in a murder.

The presence (or in some cases absence) of a truculent son, a tragic beauty and an estranged wife, plus an altercation with a neighbouring quinta over ownership of land provide the reader with enough red herrings to occupy what Hercules Poirot so endearingly termed 'the little grey cells'.

The Douro in all its glory – and gory in this case – are described with occasionally arch and/or humorous observation by the pen of Tony Aspler.  Aspler's own voice can sometimes be discerned, and I can only concur with the tongue-in-cheek sentiment expressed by Ezra Brant that 'Wine writing was not a lucrative job. The lifestyle was enormously attractive …. but the financial rewards were slim.'

The prose is lucid and the story carries the reader along as swiftly as the current of the river of its title.  Unpretentious light entertainment.

Review by Helen Austyn

Other Wine Lover's Mysteries by Tony Aspler include 'The Beast of Barbaresco' and 'Blood is Thicker than Beaujolais'.

Sassicaia by Marco Fini
Hardcover $55

Distributed by Antique Collector's Club (Dan Farrell)
Tel: 845 297 0003

In the foreword to this attractive coffee-table edition the prominent Italian wine expert, Burton Anderson recalls, 'Italian restaurateurs voted Sassicaia 'wine of the century' by a wide margin, in a poll conducted by the magazine 'Civiltà del bere'.

In a second foreword, James Suckling of 'The Wine Spectator' writes 'Sassicaia is the quintessential Italian Cabernet Sauvignon, although the wine usually includes about 20% Cabernet Franc in the blend. It's the perfect balance between a highly regarded Bordeaux and an esteemed Napa Valley Cabernet.'

Two comments, which sum up in just a few lines what Sassicaia is today. The book however tells much more - in its 163 glossy pages - about the history and background of the wine that became, in 1994, the first 'Super Tuscan' and which fetches consistently high prices in auctions.  The delightful photography of Stefano Hunyady captures the style and character of the San Guido Estate (home of Sassicaia) and the surrounding Tuscan countryside, exhibiting the beauty we have come to expect from this region.

Author Marco Fini takes us on a fluent journey, which begins with the history of the Incisa della Rocchetta family and their involvement with wine over 1,000 years ago.  He explains how the Marchesi Mario Incisa had begun work on his plan for 'a miniature vineyard' by testing soils and their exposures to the elements 'before selecting land at 350 metres (1,137 feet) and then planted 1,000 vines on little more than 2,000 square metres'. The problem immediately arose of 'blackbirds and wild boar attacking the vines'.  Later, from 1943 – 1968, Sassicaia remained a private aristocratic plaything, until in 1968 the Marchesi entered into an arrangement with his cousins, the Antinori family, to market the wine and streamline the operation. Oak casks for fermentation were replaced with stainless steel and the wine took on a new charm, attracting compliments from many international wine professionals.  Most gratifying to the Marchesi was a letter he received one day from the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild fame. It read 'Dear Colleague, Your wine is wild and savage but brilliant.' and that term 'colleague' brought the greatest pleasure to him. It told him that he had been accepted into the highest class of all.

Reviewed by Andrew Jones, Editor.

The Vintner's Table Cookbook
Recipes from a Winery Chef

By Mary Evely
Hardcover $29.99

Published by Simi Winery
P. O. Box 698, Healdsburg CA 95448
Tel: 707 433 6981 Fax: 707 433 6253

Edited, designed and manufactured in the USA by Favorite Recipes Press
2451 Atrium Way, Nashville TN 37214

In her foreword to 'The Vintner's Table Cookbook', Zelma Lang, Winemaker and President of Simi, pays tribute to the years of dedicated work which Simi Chef Mary Evely has put to good use in this out-of-the -ordinary cookbook.  The observation that 'The serious study of how wines pair best with different foods has, for the most part, been undertaken either haphazardly or intuitively.' will find a sympathetic chord in the hearts of many wine lovers.

Chef Mary Evely acknowledges in her preface the early influence of James Beard and Julia Child, who inspired her love of food.  This, in turn, led her to become curious about wine and the interaction of the two, and eventually to Simi winery, where she created a food and wine program called 'The Vintner's Table'.  This book shares her findings.  It is a cookbook that puts wine equal, if not first, when planning the ingredients of a meal.

Chapters are arranged according to varietal and recipes grouped to suit. Whether you want to serve one wine with a relatively simple meal, or several to accompany a lavish banquet, the pairing is there for you. Some recipes are described as 'chameleon', and like that endearing creature they can 'change color' and work with more than one varietal with just slight alterations. These include Pizza Niçoise on Puff Pastry and Mary's Barbecued Spare Ribs, recipes which don't sound dauntingly complex to those just beginning to embark on the joyous journey of the palate.

Each chapter begins with some useful, general comments on a specific varietal and on why their flavors and/or acid content make them a good match for certain foods.  Thus Zinfandel is 'a lush, fruity red wine' and its berry flavors mean it 'can handle a little bit of heat in the spice department.'  Recipe suggestions include Tomato and Black Olive Risotto and Roasted Tomato Soup. A more daring and for me, very enticing, pairing is in the chapter on Cabernet Sauvignon, where Mary Evely suggests tuna steaks, cooked rare, with a Cabernet/Cassis sauce and lavender!

For reference purposes the book is arranged in what could be described as color-coding. The chapter on Sauvignon Blanc is a gentle shade of green, Blush is –naturally – rose colored and Cabernet a delicate mauve. Attractively presented and easy to follow, 'The Vintner's Table Cookbook' is an intriguing and informative addition to the shelves of anyone interested in enjoyable dining.

Reviewed by Helen Austyn

Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guides
$14.95 Wines of Spain by Jan Read

Wineries, regions and vintages are reviewed in this rather useful pocket guide written by veteran wine journalist Jan Read.  He is probably the most experienced contemporary writer on Spanish wines and lives, breathes , tastes – and naturally – consumes them. The guide has been published at an ideal time, as Spain is leaving behind its past image as a country with a reputation for inexpensive and moderately priced wines, which left much to be desired, into a modern European winemaking country.

Aragon to Cataluna and from Galicia to Valencia the guide charts the successes of these rapidly improving regions, as well as providing comprehensive listings of renowned favourites like Navarra and Rioja. He writes in a clear, straightforward style: 'Penedes is a limestone region southwest of Barcelona best-known for its sparkling wines but the best of its still wines rival those of Rioja'. Many sections on the food, hotels and restaurants of the regions are also very useful. At $14.95 this hardback edition is a most helpful purchase.

Oz Clarke's Introducing Wine
US$20  Hardcover, published by Harcourt.
***

The fact that the cover is a ghastly shade of green should not deter you from buying this admirable beginners' guide.  As with all Oz Clarke's books the reader is treated to the most helpful content, and the majority of it is easy to follow.  The only question I would raise concerns its $20 price, which seems a little high for the size and presentation.

Having just tasted a Chianti with a sweet and sour palate, I was impressed to read in the opening chapter, called 'The Flavors of Wine', that Oz identifies 15 tastes, including what he concisely describes as 'Mouthwatering ……. sweet-sour Italian reds'.  The chapter 'Discover Grape Varieties' includes Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Grenache, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Sangiovese, Syrah/Shiraz, Tempranillo and Zinfandel for reds.  Amongst the whites Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier are described, and other grape varieties are covered in brief.

Thereafter the book progresses through 3 instructive chapters, entitled 'Enjoying Wine', which includes sections on matching food and wine and understanding labels; 'The World of Wine' covers France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Other European countries, Unites States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. These are followed by an 'Appellation Decoder', 'the most useful words in wine' and a comprehensive index.

It is of course a well-written book simply because it is by Oz Clarke, but there is not quite enough of it for the price.

Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Guide 2001
US$13  Hardcover, published by Harcourt
****

The word 'pocket' in the book's title seems to get smaller and smaller as the guide grows and grows.  It now contains over 1,600 items.

The A-Z format makes the book very simple to use for quick reference purposes and it is particularly strong on its winery entries.  Take, for instance, Fonseca Port.  Oz writes, 'Fonseca Vintage*** is magnificent, the aged tawnies** uniformly superb and Bin No. 27* one of the top premium rubies'.  Hogue Cellars Washington State is praised for its really splendid ripe, brambly Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon** and a supple, elegant Reserve Merlot**, 'that has hit*** on occasion.' For the Niebaum-Coppola Estate at Rutherford in the Napa Valley, the author offers only one* for its Rubicon and advises correctly that it still needs 5 - 6 years ageing.

One omission that surprised me was the developing star Syrah from the infant Bridlewood winery in southern California. Oz also appears to have completely overlooked the finest value in US sparkling wine, Gruet Brut, made by winemakers from the Champagne region of France in New Mexico, and listed by such distinguished venues as the Waldorf Astoria in New York and The Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas.

But no one writer can be expected to cover the entire wine world in 300 pages and Oz Clarke does match Hugh Johnson's Pocket Guide in many ways, and, if anything, is slightly easier to read.

In Tuscany by Frances Mayes with Edward Mayes
Photography by Bob Krist
US $35 Canada $50  Hardcover, Broadway Books
****

A delight to the senses in every way, the lavishly illustrated 'In Tuscany' is a celebration of life in this enchanting region of Italy. Here are photos to please the eye, recipes to tempt the tastebuds, but above all the prose of Frances Mayes and her poet husband, Ed; full of a vital and refreshing immediacy which never fails to capture the quintessence of this historic country. Whether it is a meal with friends, gathering olives or simply regarding the landscape, Mayes' deft touch communicates effortlessly what she describes as 'the turn of slow days in an ancient place'.

Following the highly successful 'Under the Tuscan Sun' and 'Bella Tuscany', which told the story of the Mayes' lovingly restored Italian home - Bramisole, this new book comes in 5 distinct sections. Each one covers a different aspect of Italian life: the Piazza, the focus of social interaction; la Festa, the yearly round of festivals, celebrations and saints' days; il Campo, the fields; la Cucina, the kitchen; and la Bellezza, the beauty of the light, the countryside and the people. Throughout the book, photos of sweeping landscapes, rustic elegance and captivating faces are interspersed with personal experiences and reflections, plus, of course, drool-worthy recipes such as Silvia's Torta di Ricotta and Wild Boar Stew.  For myself I am definitely going to attempt Riccardo Barrachi's Limoncello, a disarmingly easy DIY Lemon Liqueur.

'In Tuscany' is not a wine book, although wine is an integral part of Tuscan life and references to it are impossible to omit; there are mentions of Avignonesi Vineyards, Vino Nobile and that delectation for desserts, vin santo.  But this charming stroll through a much-loved region is a book to linger over and savor, and as such it is sure to find a place in the hearts of aficionados of the Italian way of life everywhere.

Reviewed by Helen Austyn

Great Wine Made Simple By Andrea Immer
US$25 Canada $38 Hardcover, published by Broadway Books.
****

I once met Andrea Immer at a network affiliate Television station, when a freak double booking had placed us on the same show. She made her presentation first and I was impressed with her simple, straightforward approach to wine and the clear, precise explanations that she gave. Andrea continues this pattern in her first wine book 'Great Wine Made Simple', which is sub-titled 'Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier'.

On account of her previous experience as Beverage Director for New York's celebrated Windows on the World restaurant, and her current work directing the wine program for Starwood Hotels and Resorts, Andrea has acquired a serious interest in the reaction of consumers to wine. With this book she offers them a constructive method of feeling comfortable with the subject.

She succeeds in giving some structure and order to a wine appreciation program that many will find most helpful to follow. Indeed, it would make a useful refresher course for some serious wine enthusiasts. Andrea selects six varietals for experimentation: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Next, she lists individual wine recommendations divided into three price ranges: everyday, moderate and splurge, and it is difficult to argue with her nominations, other than to comment that perhaps the wonderful wines of Australia are not as well covered as they deserve.

Andrea Immer limits herself to a helpful pattern by presenting just 10 chapters which cover subjects such as 'What does it taste like?', 'France, The Objects of Desire' and 'Corkscrews, Decanters and all those Glasses'. She carefully guides readers through some simple tasting exercises and explains tannins and acidity. The more I read her work the more I conclude that she and I appreciate the same style of wines, with acidity important in dry white wines, and flavor and character in reds. The chapter on France covers a substantial 57 pages and includes wise and beneficial guidance on Champagne, Bordeaux, Alsace, Burgundy and Rhone. The Corkscrew chapter includes advice on opening a bottle of Champagne and yet curiously does not suggest holding the bottle at a three quarter diagonal, a practice that is repeatedly taught in the Champagne region of France. It also provides some helpful information on 'wine problems' and 'storing wine'.

'Great Wine Made Simple' will be a boon to many. It is a refreshing and positive approach and is strongly recommended to those who wish to pursue wine as occasional or serious enthusiasts. It is worth $25/$38 for the prose alone, but sadly not for its uninspiring monochrome illustrations, a strange editorial choice in this day and age.

FASCINATING NEW WINE BOOKS FROM MITCHELL BEAZLEY

Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2001
$12.95 Available from Simon & Schuster
*****

A few years ago on London's LBC Radio, I asked Sarah Kemp, the publisher of Decanter magazine, who, in her opinion, was the best wine writer. Her immediate response was 'Hugh Johnson' and her statement is largely borne out by public support. The dust jacket of the 2001 edition of his 'Pocket Wine Book' reads, 'It was first published in 1977 and now sells over 400,000 copies a year. In all, over six million copies have been sold around the world, more than any other wine book in history'.

It is, quite simply, the standard reference book of the wine world, but to use the word 'standard' does not do it justice because the volume and variety of its content are extraordinary. It is a remarkable, not-so-mini directory of wine information, covering the entire world. Take a few random examples: on page 41 we read that Henri Bourgeois is a 'leading Sancerre grower / merchant in Chavignol'; on page 163, four very brief successive items give a straightforward explanation of the Rioja region; page 207 covers 'The Old Russian Empire'; and page 253 advises that Grant Burge Wines from Australia's Barossa region supply 'silky-smooth reds and whites'.

There are vintage charts and wine and food pairings, a guide to grape varieties and most wisely, at the beginning, a page on 'how to use this book'.

Some real idea of the team effort behind the guide can be found opposite the contents page, where a total of 60 fellow contributors are acknowledged. These include leading New Zealand wine writer, Michael Cooper, Mr Romanian Wine Dan Muntean, and South Africans, John and Erica Platter. In other words, Hugh Johnson draws on national experts from around the world.

The book remains a must for serious wine drinkers, improvers and beginners. It is difficult to fault; indeed it took a journey to the Pacific Northwest to raise the smallest doubt. Here, one must query why Domaine Drouhin, from Oregon's Willamette Valley, with its heavily priced and occasionally disappointing wines, is given **** while the neighbouring King Estate, which now produces some stunning single estate Pinot Noirs and good volumes of the most attractive Pinot Gris, is awarded a mere **.

This attractively illustrated volume, which includes regional maps, is far more than a coffee table book. It is a comprehensive guide to Italy and its winemaking today. The authors are two experienced Italian wine journalists who clearly have encyclopedic knowledge.

It begins with an untitled and beautifully balanced still life of various wine bottles and jugs to introduce 'The Story of Italian Wine', followed by explanatory chapters on Italian wine production, label regulations and grape varieties. The co-authors then proceed to divide Italian wine production into 6 main areas: The Northwest, The Northeast, Adriatic Apennines, The Central Tyrrhenian, The Southern Peninsula and The Islands. Each of these is sub-divided into individual regions and then into chapters about specific denominations. Thus the Northwest embraces Valle d'Aosta, Piedmont, Lombardy and Liguria, whilst Piedmont, for example, contains separate chapters on Barbaresco, Barolo, Alba and Roero, Asti and Barbera d'Asti, Monferrato and Gavi, Novara and the Vercelli Hills. At this point, with 5 further sections and 50 further chapters to come, the realisation dawns of how little we know about Italian wine. There is a distinct need for such a book and it will become a useful and maybe important reference work in many a wine library, whether belonging to organisations or individuals.

With such extensive and comprehensive subject matter just how does a wine journalist assess this book? The answer is to look at the areas that cover the Italian wines of which one has some personal experience, which is the method I followed. As it is no secret that Wine on the Web is a fan of the Gavi wines from La Scolca, I turned to page 53 and - hey presto - soon found it described in particularly praiseworthy terms! So what about Frescobaldi's Nipozzano, which I have visited as a journalist and which has a reputation as a most consistent Chianti Rufina estate? On page 22 it appears with a positive reference to its aging potential. Next, a change of direction South to Marsala, where Florio and Pellegrino excel and they were also found amongst 5 favorable mentions. Throughout the book 'notable producers' are listed in every region.

Frankly 'The New Italy' has so much content it is difficult to give a really accurate review. The truth will emerge over the coming years as each Italian wine sample is tasted and the search for its identity begins. I know that I will be referring to it over and over again, as will many others.

The Wall Street Journal Guide To Wine

Husband and wife wine journalist team, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, may not be household names to the majority of American wine enthusiasts, but to hundreds of thousands of Wall Street Journal readers their Friday 'Tastings' column is a must. The depleted shelves of so many wine retailers across the nation are testimony to their column's influence. Now the couple bring much of their enthusiasm to their new hardback 'The Wall Street Journal Guide to Wine' published by Broadway Books at $25.

The introduction quickly establishes their position with a very clear statement, 'We're writing for a frustrated majority: people who can afford more and better wine, who want to know more about wine and don't know where to begin.'

The book is extremely readable but also an enigma. However can successful wine writers include a chapter on Muscadet and Vouvray from France as 'Cheap White Wines with Class' and yet not include any everyday Australian wines in their chapter on Chardonnay?

The book contains 30 chapters, generally written in a very easy no-nonsense style. The comment in the chapter on Champagne, with reference to Louis Roederer Cristal 1990, says it  'looks more like Sprite than Champagne because it's so pale.'   This is either ignorance or honesty, most probably the latter. Perhaps it would have been kinder to explain that there is nothing wrong with Champagne having a pale lemon color but maybe at '$145.99' you should expect something different.

The chapter on visiting wineries is full of good sense and practical advice. Reading it will make these occasions so much more satisfying for many and the chapter entitled 'Decoding the Wine List - It's Easier than It Looks' brings the best from their 25 years experience of sharing wine. They offer seven simple steps for 'a kind of Gaiter / Brecher Secret Wine List Decoder Ring'. These include:-

Take your time.
Decide if you want red or white.
Does the restaurant specialize in a certain type of wine?
Eliminate the showcase wines.
Cross off the wines you already know.
Decide what you're willing to spend.
Finally, out of the remainder pick two or three and ask the waiter's advice.

It is a simple yet sensible strategy and will probably work 90% of the time. Give it a try and you'll most likely find it a better method than any you had previously devised yourself.  Most important you will also glean much information every time you put the plan into operation.

The Wall Street Journal Guide to Wine

by Dorothy J Gaiter and John Brecher
published by Broadway Books at $25

Celebrated British wine journalist Oz Clarke, famed for his complicated wine descriptions, has turned over a new leaf, in fact 416 of them, in his helpful and straightforward new hardback OZ CLARKE'S NEW ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WINE, published by Harcourt Brace at $40 ($60 Canada).

In the first 29 pages common-sense advice is offered on topics from winemaking to keeping and serving wine, as well as tasting. This is followed by basic facts about the main wine growing countries of the world before, at page 56, the bulk of the book becomes an A-Z of Wines, Wine Regions, Producers and Grape Varieties.

If you seek information about familiar wines like Beringer Vineyards, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild or Chianti Classico it is easily accesible and the same applies to more elusive subjects like De Bortoli, the Australian sweet wine specialist, Moravenka Pinot Gris from the Czech Republic, or Bedell Cellars from Long Island NY.

It is a simple reference book that amateurs and professionals alike will keep at hand, ready to dip into and find that unknown, or even forgotten, information. Attractively packaged with glossy pages and colour illustrations, its price of $40 is enough. But remember the old adage about books. If you see a title you either need or want, do you really take the price into consideration? .

Portugal's Wines & Wine Makers

Revised. This is a Portuguese wine book by Richard Mayson.  It is available from Hi Marketing, 33 Carver Road, London, United Kingdom, SE24 9LT.

Richard Mayson is clear-headed ....he gives a fair, up-to-date and highly readable survey of one of wine's most exciting frontiers - Hugh Johnson wrote in the foreword for the revised edition.

Whisky TalkWhisky Talk by Andrew Jones contains entertaining facts and legends about whisky.  Published by Piatkus Books, it is available from Amazon, Dillons, Waterstones and, Volume One.

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