The Irish in You – Jameson Whiskey
(April 2008)

Though not certain where it began, historians suggest that in the sixth century, monks brought the relatively new science of distillation to Ireland. Later again, in 1780 there were magics of sorts; James Watt perfected the steam engine and Mozart crafted magical music, and John Jameson began crafting magic in his Dublin distillery. This was a key part of the start of Irish whiskey. And it was good.

"Traditional Irish pot still whiskey is different in that the starter mash is both malted and unmalted barley," explains David Quinn, the Jameson, rightly named, master of whiskey science. "The unmalted elements bring a more mouth coating texture. The single malts' approaches can be dry on the palate."

Unlike Scotch, there are no peaty or smoky characteristics in Irish whiskey. Regarding the entry level, top quality, Jameson whiskeys, "We use special oak casks – barrels that we design and then send to Jerez, Spain, where there is a seasoning process over two years with Oloroso Sherry, separated from the solera system. It is quite an expensive process, but we feel it is worth it," adds Quinn. They also embrace the same logic by sometimes using Bourbon barrels from America.

Jameson Twelve-Year-Old

Nice rich dark amber color, matured in Sherry casks. European oak gives this a rich aroma of hearty grain with nuances of fruit and nuttiness from the Sherry casks, some vanilla, spice and floral notes

"The reason for the third distillation, we take the center cut of the center cut from distillation. This influences the character of the spirit, removing the heavier fusel oils pushing the flavor spectrum to being more floral, fruity and spiced. The result is more smoothness on the palate, though it is a full-bodied whiskey." $36 is the suggested retail price.

Jameson Gold Reserve

Formerly only available in airport duty-free venues, this special whiskey starts with an exotic, spiced nose, possibly Asian spice hints, rich ripe pear with hottish brown spices, peach, orange zest, and then dried fruit nuances in the long finish. "There is a creamy, mouth coating texture on the palate," observes Quinn. There is a touch of structure from new American oak in the barrel mix. $65 is the suggested retail price.

Jameson Eighteen-Year-Old

Though barely legal, so to speak, the aromas lead with mature complexities of leather, cigar tobacco and a touch of apricot. "This is the type of whiskey that could be served in a snifter and warmed in your hand," advises Quinn. There are complex toffee notes, with spice and floral on the long, subtle length. The suggested retail price is $74.

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve

A blend from the truly finest barrels of whiskey of 20-23 years of age. One of the secrets is that these are matured in special, used Port casks. The nose is luxurious, almost like perfume. There are notes of tropical fruit, melon and even fudge or butterscotch, with nuances of leather. It is a little bit stronger in proof, being 92 (46% alcohol). It has a huge, creamy mouth-coating texture. There are luscious flavors of banana, brown spice and lightly toasted wood. The complex flavor from the port casks includes sweet notes of dark chocolate along with the wood elements. There are interesting notes of barley in the long length on the palate. ($250 suggested retail)

The obvious success of Jameson, especially the very limited release reserve, can be attributed to the across the board smooth and accessible taste. This gentle taste can be ascribed to a team that includes Dave Quinn, master of whiskey science at the renowned Middleton Distillery, the home of Jameson. "Our goal has been to present the fast-growing audience of Irish whiskey lovers with a heritage bottling of which we are passionately proud. In this reserve bottling, we have created a truly vintage Jameson experience," boasts Quinn.

Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to the grapes of Rhône. Since 1972, they have crafted powerful wines from terroir-driven grapes grown in their 240 acres of distinctive vineyards, with concentrated character and proven quality. Zaca Mesa is all about focus. By the early 1990's, they had correctly determined that the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley of France (especially Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, and Roussanne) grow best in their specific vineyards.

The Zaca Mesa Syrah 2003 ($22.00) offers deep, concentrated blackberry, cassis and their signature sage, spice and pepper aromas. "A traditional pairing for this wine is a leg of lamb marinated in rosemary and garlic. Peppercorn steak or mushroom risotto would work incredibly well," says General Manager/CEO Brook Williams. Their Syrah has been served by President Clinton to French President Chirac at the White House.

The Zaca Mesa "Z Cuvée" 2004 ($18.00) is a precise blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsaut, inspired by the classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape recipe. Grenache is said to add powerful raspberry flavors. Mourvèdre brings tannic nuances with blueberry . Syrah can be dark plum, pepper and/or leather. Also included is a touch of Cinsaut's Southern France earthiness. "These layers of flavor enable this wine to pair with a wide variety of foods from mushroom pizza to rosemary crusted leg of lamb," suggests winemaker Clay Brock.

The Zaca Mesa Viognier 2006 ($18.00) reveals a classic peach blossom nose. Hinting of sweetness, the sip is full-bodied, tart with citrus and is dry through the complex finish. There is no oak in the flavor profile and the complexities stand forward. Viognier is the crucial white grape of the Northern Rhône and is often blended with red varietals resulting in even more powerful red wines. Go figure? "A natural pairing would be Thai chicken, Ahi tuna or Szechuan prawns," according to Brock.

The Zaca Mesa Roussanne 2005 ($25.00) is juicy and intense, capturing the mineral terroir of Santa Ynez. There are interesting hints of oak toastiness. "Aromas of apricots, figs, honey and spice fill the glass," boasts the winemaker, Brock. "A lingering finish has a touch of minerality, a signature characteristic. Enjoy with grilled halibut, lobster risotto or rosemary roasted chicken."

The Zaca Mesa Chardonnay 2005 ($18.00) captures ripe pear and lemon crispness, tropical fruit flavors that are framed in toasty oak from ten months of barrel aging. This Chardonnay shows restraint and balance. It is full-bodied and classic in styling. "This wine will pair well with butternut squash risotto or grilled salmon." suggests winery president Brook Williams.

There is also a perfect Rosé produced in very limited supply. The "Z Gris" is crafted in the dry French tradition, priced at $15. This wine can work with almost any cuisine, or it can be simply sipped out on the deck.

A pioneer in the Santa Barbara County, Zaca Mesa was a training ground for winemaking genius. The legendary Ken Brown was their first winemaker, later starting Byron in Santa Maria Valley. Jim Clendenen and Bob Lindquist worked at Zaca Mesa before venturing out on their own to start Au Bon Climat and Qupé, respectively. Other alumni include Lane Tanner, Daniel Gehrs, Chuck Carlson of Curtis, and Adam Tolmach of Ojai.

View over Zaca Mesa Vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley

Zaca Mesa was one of the first wineries in Santa Barbara County after prohibition. As the vineyard grew and respectable production began, a winery was built on the estate in 1978. Learn more at www.zacamesa.com.

Best Wines from Washington State- Top Twenty Minus One
By Chris Horn

(February 2008)

Editor's note: Chris Horn is a guest columnist, offering precise insights regarding the best wines from Washington State. A few are in distribution nationally. Others are worth the trip to Washington State. Horn purchases wines for Purple Café and Wine Bar's extensive wine list, which includes hundreds of bottles and over 75 wines-by-the-glass, staff education and service. In April 2007, the restaurants were voted 'Best Place for Wine Tasting' in Seattle Magazine's 'Reader's Choice' poll. Purple Seattle is a recent winner of Evening Magazine's 'Best of Western Washington' contest in the category of 'Best Wine Bar,' and Wine Spectator's 'Award of Excellence.' Purple is located at 14459 Woodinville-Redmond Rd., Woodinville, Wash. (425-483-7129), 323 Park Place, Kirkland, Wash. (425-828-3772) and 1225 Fourth Ave., Seattle (206-829-2280).

1] Abeja

John Abbot was responsible for one of those wines—you know, the kind of bottle that made you re-think what you thought you knew about a varietal and a place. (For the sake of record, it was a [of all things] 1997 Canoe Ridge Reserve Merlot. I can still recall that wine...) He continues to make stunning, stylish, understated, complex wines at Abeja. And while some might accuse me of over-statement, I consider Abeja to be one of the best wineries in America. I have tasted the '05 Merlot, and it's precious…I am eagerly anticipating the '05 Cabernet.

2] Andrew Will

To choose one of Chris Camarda's wines would be hard. What I have always appreciated about the wines of Andrew Will is the absolute expression of place. And while he could have continued making varietal wines from some of the best vineyards in the state, he chose to take what he had learned from these vineyards and created blends expressing exactly what the land and vintage had offered by producing blends labeled simply by their origin. I have often used the phrase 'berries floating in cream' to describe the Andrew Will style—but it's admittedly a bit lazy. His wines are the best examples of respect for terroir in the hands of confident and expert winemaking. I would line up a bottle of his '05 Sheridan (Yakima Valley), '05 Ciel du Cheval (Red Mountain) and '05 Champoux (Columbia Valley) in order to understand not only his skill, but the variety of excellence that can come out of Washington State.

3] Betz Family Winery

I just drank my last '02 Betz Père de Famille, and I'm a bit ashamed. Sure, it was a delight, but I wish I had just one more bottle in the cellar. I think Bob Betz is a class act, and I wish there were more of his stuff to go around. I am putting his '05 La Serrene (Columbia Valley) at the top of my best-of list for the vintage, and I don't think I'm alone in this opinion.

4] Boudreaux Cellars

Rob Newsom's '05 Chardonnay is one of the top five Chardonnays in the state. But I really appreciate digging into his '04 Cabernet Sauvignon—it's a blend of vineyards from around the various valleys, and is touted as a 'Washington State' wine. It's as complex a Cabernet as I have had lately—an amalgam of personalities that manages to deliver a layered experience without seeming schizophrenic.

5] Buty

Caleb Foster (and Nina Buty Foster) has been quietly making excellent wines for the last five vintages. Their whites are solid, but it's their Rediviva bottling that has provided me with the most pleasure. Caleb cut his teeth working with Rick Small at Woodward Canyon, and there is a technical purity to his wines along with a strong dose of vineyard personality. The '05 Rediviva (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah) is pretty wound-up right now, but it's still head and shoulders above other similarly styled blends.

6] Cayuse Vineyards

Ok, so it's hard to get your hands on Christophe Baron's grog. But there is no denying that the hype is justified. His Syrahs are a benchmark, and I'll take a bottle of the Cailloux vineyard any day…The '03 is one part Washington, one part northern Rhône.

7] Cougar Crest

David Hansen manages the vineyard, and wife Debbie makes the wines. It's a story of grape growers turned wine producers, and their intimate knowledge of their fruit comes through in the bottle. Their '02 Reserve Syrah was one of my favorites, but I'd have to tip my hat to their '03 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Sadly, I just ran out of this stellar Cabernet last month, but I will still include it in my best-of list for the year. The '05 Cabernet is a winner, too, especially considering their asking price. There is a little less oak on the '05, which translates into a fruit-driven experience. They have recently ceased selling any of their grapes to other wineries, so I am interested to see how they evolve over the next few years.

8] Dunham Cellars

I have historically celebrated my birthday with Eric Dunham's Columbia Valley Syrah. He's generous with the oak, which draws some criticism, but for me, that lavish wood treatment creates Syrahs with an intriguing mix of spice notes in the nose that makes me want to inhale as much as drink. The big winner, of course, is the '04 Lewis Vineyard Syrah—a stunning, opulent, wicked glass of wild spice-soaked berries.

9] Isenhower Cellars

Brett and Denise Isenhower should be commended for producing sound wines at reasonable prices. While other Walla Walla wineries have spiked their prices over the last few years, you can still get a bottle of Isenhower and not feel the sting of the sticker. If I were to grab one bottle, it would probably be the '06 Snapdragon (Viognier and Roussanne, Horse Heaven Hills)—tropical and friendly, pineapple/cinnamon upside-down cake meets mango daiquiri.

10] Januik Winery

Mike Januik made some memorable wines at Chateau Ste. Michelle (I recall his Artist Series wines of the late 90's fondly). But now he's making wine on his own terms and putting his name on the label. I don't know if there is another winemaker with as many Washington vintages under his belt, and he's contracted fruit from some of the best vineyards around. If I were to pull one bottle out, it would probably be his '04 Petit Verdot from Ciel du Cheval in Red Mountain… Dark…Dark…Dark…Like a delicious Darth Vader in a bottle.

11] K Vintners

Charles Smith is a special kind of genius—a marketing genius, for certain. And though the 'House Wine' will perhaps be the thing he is most remembered for, his single vineyard Syrahs still deliver a level of excellence that shouldn't be eclipsed by his business savvy. And while his '05 Milbrandt Syrah does not have the perceived pedigree (or price tag) of his other bottlings, I dare say that it delivers what no other Washington Syrah under 25 bucks manages—dirt, earth, and a wildness that pummels the palate like a blackberry-soaked Tasmanian devil. (My apologies for the metaphor…I'm guessing that tasting note was recorded toward the end of a particularly thorough evening…)

12] L'Ecole No. 41

The Fergusons founded L'Ecole back in the early eighties. Their winemaker since 1990 is Marty Clubb, who married their daughter Megan, and as it stands now, the winery is in their care. You can't understate the importance of working with many of the same vineyards for so many vintages—there is a familiarity and understanding of the raw material along with a certain level of wisdom that is undeniable. So year in and year out, I tend to appreciate their work. But I will say that their '05 Merlot is one of the best in the state—a bunch of chocolate-covered black berries/cherries rolled around in pepper and baking spices.

13] Long Shadows Vintners

Ok, so the scoop on Allen Shoup's 'retirement' project is only half of the story. Sure, a bunch of superstar winemakers using superstar grapes is one side—a rather intriguing side for certain. But I've got to say that the '04 Feather (made by Randy Dunn) is a great Washington Cabernet. It's big, but light on its feet, with a classic cabernet flavor spectrum that includes a distinctively Washington plumminess (though I don't know if 'plumminess' is actually in the dictionary). Again—a great Washington Cabernet.

14] McCrea Cellars

You could go on and on about how Doug McCrea was ahead of his time. He is one of the first in the state to focus on Rhône Valley varietals, both red and white. (He has twenty vintages under his belt, actually.) But the bottle that brings together one of the best Syrah winemakers with one of the best Syrah vineyards is the '04 Boushey from McCrea. It's such a pleasure – it seems to have all the personality Syrah can possibly have: dark fruits, red fruits, black pepper, white pepper, smoke, earth, meat, wood, dried spices. It only gets better after sitting around for half a day and I can't wait to see how the '05 comes out.

15] OS Winery

It took me a long time to become a fan of Owen-Sullivan's wines. I think it was the '02 Ulysses that turned me around. But my favorite OS wine isn't even out of the barrel yet—I had a sample of his 2005 Sheridan Vineyard Cabernet Franc this last Father's Day, and I've got to say that I've never anticipated a bottle as much. It was not only the best Washington Cabernet Franc I've had to date, but it was out of a crappy glass in a 55 degree cellar…Awesome.

16] Quilceda Creek

I was lucky enough to have spent a good number of years in a restaurant that had deep deep reserves of Quilceda Cabernet, and thanks to the wine buyer Bruce Sturgeon, we didn't pull any Q-Creek out of storage until a good five or six years after release. And I believe that, while all those ridiculous scores were justified, the vast majority of Quilceda Creek wines are consumed way before they are showing their best. (Which brings up another fact--I can only think of four or five other Washington wines that deserve and benefit from patient cellaring.) The last bottle I had was a '96 on my wife's birthday last April, and it was hard to concentrate on the fact that we were celebrating her day of birth and not the uncorking of that bottle I bought when I was in my twenties after a particularly good shift on the floor. Sure, calling Quilceda Creek a 'favorite' is kinda like being a Patriot's fan, but I'll risk the comparison.

17] Sheridan Vineyard

It was the '01 L'Orage that made me a fan. It's hard to think that that bottle was put together on the fifth leaf of this vineyard, or that winemaker Scott Greer didn't spend a day in a classroom learning how, exactly, one is supposed to make wine. But the blend was something that was before its time—40% Cabernet Franc, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon—and it was a seamless mix of dark and red fruits with just enough oak spice. And it was so lively, all that great Yakima Valley acidity; I'm also a huge fan of his '04 Syrah.

18] Tamarack Cellars

Ron Coleman is a mad blender. He sources his grapes from different microclimates around the state, and I think the only AVA he leaves out of the mix is the Puget Sound. I picture him in a white lab coat surrounded by beakers, wax candles and lightning with a maniacal look on his face and a hump-backed assistant with a limp. And while I will maintain that his Merlot is the best in the state in its price category, I have to sing the praises of his Firehouse Red. Not only is it built from an array of vineyard sources, but a kitchen sink's worth of grape varietals. It is a complex shape shifter of a wine, constantly changing but always pleasing. And I don't know how he does it, but the '05 Firehouse is downright inexpensive. (If Mary Shelley was to write about a winemaker, it would be Ron Coleman.)

19] Woodward Canyon

I don't know how it started, but I began celebrating New Year's Eve with a bottle of Woodward Canyon Artist Series Cabernet many years ago—perhaps before I really understood how good the wine was. This year, I'll be cracking a bottle of the '03, but I'll probably get it in the decanter first thing in the morning. At first, the wine is super -shy, like it's hiding under the covers, but after you allow this wine some time to wake up, have a proper breakfast and a third cup of coffee, the personality starts to show. And come evening, this little monster starts to let its hair down—and once it's down, it's party time.

20] Wine to be named later—I'm an optimist.

By Darryl Beeson and Al Dente

Francis Ford Coppola recently came to town with an amazing roadshow, designed for limited audiences within the wine trade and media. He was showcasing his food products along with his newest winery and remarkable tourist destination, the former site of Chateau Souverain (just north of Healdsburg, based in Sonoma), now headquarters for his Coppola Diamond and Francis Ford Presents wines. His pricey Rubicon, and many more inspired offerings, still hail from Napa (www.niebaum-coppola.com).

All of Francis Ford Coppola's wines are crafted to go very well with food. During the witty, magical, creative and frenetic presentation, he let slip a family pasta sauce secret. Add some sugar to the tomato sauce and people will love it. Simple. Effective.

He has spoken of his 'Mammarella' who long ago cooked for her in-laws, shortly after she was married. "Italia and her husband, Carmine, dined out every night the first few weeks of marriage, as most young lovers do," explained Francis. "Having cooked nothing but cookies before becoming a wife, she was terrified at the prospect of preparing an entire dinner, especially since she had no recipes of her own. Based on memories of what her mother had done, she cooked the same dish every night for a week until she got it just right. By the time her in-laws arrived for dinner, her husband had eaten the same meal seven days in a row, but the in-laws found the food delicious."

He now markets Mammarella pasta sauces (www.mammarellafoods.com), using organically grown tomatoes, herbs, vegetables, and olive oil. 'We don't believe in taking shortcuts. Our tomatoes are steam peeled, the onions and garlic are sautéed, and our basil is torn by hand,' boasts the director of The Godfather motion picture.

On the subject of cooking pasta, home chefs nationwide should boil some water, prep their wine-palates (that means drink more wine) and break out their own cherished family recipe book. Here is a fun opportunity to earn approval from one of the best chefs in the United States. 'Night Harvest' wines by R.H. Phillips, De Cecco Pasta and San Francisco chef Joseph Manzare have created a contest, a perfect chance to bring your personal 'offer one can not refuse' pasta recipe to national recognition, with fun prizes as well.

Contestants can spice up the upcoming winter months by inviting family and friends to a home-based pasta and 'test kitchen,' partnered with your creative dish inventions, as well as great conversation. For example, match penne with spicy sausage and fennel, paired with a bottle of 'Night Harvest' Shiraz, or farfalle contrasted with a locally produced ricotta and a bottle of 'Night Harvest' Chardonnay. If the recipe passes your home-grown test, send the recipe on to Chef Joseph Manzare for final review.

The challenge officially begins January 1, 2008, pasta recipes and wine pairing entries must be submitted by April 30, 2008. Home chefs whose meal of choice is pasta and drink of choice is wine should submit their pasta recipe (submit a photo as well) and suggested wine pairing to the following address:' Night Harvest' Pasta Recipe Winners List, PO Box 25309, Rochester, NY 14625-0309 or go to www.nightharvest.com for details of the prizes. 1st Place is $1000 cash, 5 pounds of De Cecco pasta and national culinary acclaim. California residents may enter to compete for recognition, but not for prizes.

The De Cecco family has been making pasta for more than a century in the small village of Fara San Martino, located at the foot of Mount Maiella, Italy. The brothers, passionate for pasta used from the beginning, durum wheat crops, richest in the gluten protein that makes a superior pasta dough. Over the past 100 years, De Cecco has refined pasta production, combining old world technique with modern engineering, being responsible for the 'low temperature' pasta drying model. The pasta does not have to be sun dried, removing limitations by weather.

Do you remember Clemenza's sauce, aka gravy, recipe from The Godfather? 'Start with a little oil, and fry some garlic. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste, and fry. Be sure it doesn't stick. When boiling, add the sausages and meatballs. Add some red wine and sugar.' I wonder where Clemenza learned his recipe secrets?

Also remember, 'Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.'

In 1966, Robert G. Mondavi founded the Robert Mondavi Winery to create wines in California that belong side by side with the world's finest. For over four decades, the winery maintains the family's commitment to excellence, innovation and the consistent production of distinctive wines that still capture the best of Napa Valley.

Robert Mondavi Winery is located in the heart of Napa Valley upon Highway 29 in Oakville. They were the first major winery built within Napa Valley during the post-Prohibition era. Robert Mondavi Winery promoted the entirety of Napa Valley from the beginning, and the valley grew in importance alongside Mondavi's.

The classic mission-style architecture, with their distinctive archway and bell tower designed by Cliff May, has become an enduring Napa landmark that now evokes California's rich winemaking history.

Nearby, historic Franciscan Winery is now a sister winery. Franciscan's innovator, Agustin Huneeus, brought a similar vision to Napa Valley, to consistently offer world-class wines.

Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005
Price $28
Rating 94
The Robert Mondavi Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon traditionally offers "deep, dense layers of blackberry and black plum, cassis, and a hint of cedar. The expressive flavors come from the diverse soils and climates of vineyards located primarily in the Oakville and Stags Leap District American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) of Napa Valley," explains Genevieve Janssens, director of winemaking.

As always expected, there are well-integrated tannins, beautiful aromas, flavors and textures. This red is one of California's greatest wine values, better than wines priced twice as much.

Prior to joining the Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997, Janssens was Director of Production at Opus One Winery for nine years. She received a National Diploma of Enology from the University of Bordeaux, France in 1974. Her family owned vineyards in Corsica and France, which she managed from 1974 to 1977. Born in Morocco and raised in France, Janssens brings a different sensibility and culture to the Mondavi winemaking team.

At Robert Mondavi Winery, she helped implement the "To Kalon Project," described as the first major renovation of the historic and coveted, original winery in Oakville. Says Janssens, "I wanted to be there for the construction, creativity and challenge," said Genevieve. "We...created a new winery for our "To Kalon" estate, one of the most extraordinary vineyards on earth."

Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004
Price $125
Rating 97
"Expect things like black cherry and cassis, dark chocolate, sweet anise seed and aromatic bay leaf." says winemaker Genevieve Janssens. There are intense layers of rich dark fruit. As always, the wine combines power and elegance, with powerful tannins dovetailed within the well-chiseled Cabernet flavors. "We handcrafted the wine in our To Kalon Fermentation Cellar with hand-sorting of the clusters, gravity-flow movement of the must and wine, and fermentation in a traditional oak tank. Aging in new French oak château barrels (introduces) oak spices through the expansive, velvety flavors and lingering finish," explains Janssens.

Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros 2005
Price $40
Rating 94
Expect flavors of rich, ripe pear, luscious fig, bright pineapple, exotic tropical fruit and complex floral notes. Intense vanilla spice nuances linger on the extremely long finish upon the palate. Carneros is one of California's finest regions for Chardonnay grapes. Robert Mondavi understood this early on.

Franciscan Magnificat, Napa 2004
Price $50
Rating 96
The Franciscan Magnificat is traditionally a Bordeaux inspired blend. Incredibly dense, ripe fruit concentrations are augmented by nuances of exotic vanilla and spice. The sip is well structured and balanced, perfect for long, graceful aging. The luscious oak blends evenly with the velvet hammer-like tannins throughout the long, complex length.

"When I came to Franciscan it was clear that we had great vineyards which could produce great wines," boasts Agustin Huneeus. "Our Oakville estate has always been recognized as one of the best red wine vineyards in Napa Valley. Years ago, André Tchelistcheff, one of Napa Valley's most famous winemakers, tasted our wines and told us that this vineyard wanted to make a blend in the style of the great Bordeaux wines. We knew we had the makings of what was to become one of Napa Valley's premier wines."

Wine with Altitude
(November 2007)

'Rugged mountain conditions produce grapes with intensely concentrated fruit and big, rich tannins,' concludes Mount Veeder Winery vineyard manager Matt Ashby. 'Taming these tannins and preserving flavor are the high-altitude winemaker's biggest challenge . Because (our) growing season starts late and often stretches well into November, harvest is a waiting game. But patience is rewarded with fully-developed flavors and ripe, rich tannins in the skins and seeds.'

Mount Veeder Winery handles the grapes as little as possible, using proven techniques to concentrate the intense power that mountain grapes provide. Aging in finely grained French oak barrels promotes balance and integration of the wood complexities, and precise blending enhances the strength of the final wine.

Mt. Veeder was the first vineyard in California planted to all five Bordeaux varieties. The estate vineyards are from 1,000-1,600 ft. elevation looking down upon Napa Valley.

Both Mount Veeder Winery and the rugged appellation take their names from an ancient volcano, that being a nearly 2,700 foot peak that crowns the South-eastern section of the Mayacamas Range, the defining separation between Napa and Sonoma.

The pioneers who cultivated vineyards on Mount Veeder knew there was something special about these steep slopes. 'Powerful and distinct, mountain grapes challenge the winemaker to tame their rugged tannins and reveal a deeper character,' warns Ashby.

"Mount Veeder is a magical place,' concludes Janet Myers, winemaker, 'a rare and beautiful spot where vines cling to the steep hillsides, producing tiny, concentrated berries that give our wines their big, bold, brambly fruit character."

Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004
Price $35
Rating 96
Mount Veeder Winery's classic Cabernet is potent with very ripe, raisin-like, black fruit, complex herbal notes, huge and concentrated structure, all within the long finish. This red wine is one of the most powerful red wines, consistently, from Napa, not to mention California.

Mount Veeder Winery has a proven dedication to creating wines that are the power-packed expressions of their ruggedly beautiful, mountainous site. Vineyard Manager Matt Ashby oversees the three high altitude vineyards on the extremely steep slopes of Mount Veeder and has insights regarding the difficulties of hillside farming. "Agriculture is often seen as anti-environment," he says, "but in most cases, the people who work the land are the ones who come to know it best and respect it."

There is strict attention to erosion control. Because of the contours of the land, the vines cannot be planted in long, straight rows. The rows are laid out in shorter, curving arrangements, being both pretty to the eye and hard to work. The limited topsoil is extremely precious to keep in place.

A cover crop of grasses and clover, plus an organic mix of legumes that promote higher nitrogen levels and add important organic matter back into the soil, help to restore nutrients and once again help to prevent erosion.

Learn more at www.mtveeder.com.

The very, very world-class San Antonio New World Wine and Food Festival hosted a pre-event to taste an array of Rosés. The location was Becker Vineyards in the Texas Hill Country (more information is at www.beckervineyards.com). Located in the Texas Hill Country between Fredericksburg and Stonewall, Becker Vineyards was established in 1992 by Richard and Bunny Becker. The vineyard was planted on a site of native Mustang grapes much prized for winemaking by German neighbors and their ancestors. Also planted on site is a three acre lavender field reminiscent of the wine country of Provence, France.

The San Antonio New World Wine and Food Festival is slated for November 7-11th with details at www.nwwff.org and deserves your participation.

Rosés are most often dry and complex in a special way. It has been written that if one mentions Rosé to the average wine buff you get a shrug of the shoulders. Mention Rosé to a winemaker and you will get a spirited explanation of why they do or do not make one. The public also tends to equate them with those varietals with the words 'white' in front of them, those barely pink in color and generally void of much character of the grape. Realize that Rosés can be very exciting wine matches with food.

Rosé is all about casual drinking and enjoying warmer Fall weather and food. Quoted within The New York Times, 'Rosé has replaced Prosecco and cosmos as the new chic drink,' says Ken Friedman, a partner with the Spotted Pig, a celebrity-friendly restaurant in Manhattan's Greenwich Village, offering five Rosés on its wine list.

Domaines Ott is a family owned operation involving three estates that produce an extensive portfolio of Provençale wines in three colors, and realize that some observe that the bottle shapes will scare most informed wine-geeks away.

Domaines Ott 'Les Domaniers de Puits Mouret' Côtes de Provence Rosé, 2006
Price $20-25
Rating 93
The exact blend contains Cinsaut, Grenache and Syrah. The color is very light being barely salmon. The nose offers subtle mineral and strawberry. The sip is big and bright with grapefruit, citrus and more subtle strawberry in the long, interesting length.

Becker Provençale Rosé, Tallent Vineyards, Texas Hill Country 2005
Price $10
Rating 91
'This dry wine is made from limited Grenache skin contact, giving the wine a hint of color. This wine is crisp with delicate pear, floral, and strawberry notes,' says winery co-founder Dr. Richard Becker. 'Food complements include lobster, turkey, salmon, or even sushi.' Both nougat and mineral lead in the nose, with a smoky, vanilla edge in the sip, followed by a long length of subtle cherry. This wine garnered a Champion Award from the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Wine Competition in 2007. That's no bull.

McPherson Rosé, Texas 2006
Price $10
Rating 91
The grape blend is both Syrah and Grenache. The nose reveals dried cranberry and more soft, red fruit. The sip demonstrates nougat with dried cherry and bits of lemon peel. The wine is very dry and balanced. Kim McPherson's wines have a dedicated following. His father, Dr. Clinton 'Doc' McPherson, is known as the founder of the modern Texas wine industry, and was one of the first people to plant vinifera grapes in the state.

Perrin Reserve Rosé Côtes du Rhône, 2006
Price $10
Rating 85
This wine tastes as if it is from a warm place, the color is an intense pink. The nose is fresh, of raspberries and red currants, the sip is soft with fruity roundness in the middle, and a lively cherry finish. The blend is primarily Cinsault (60%), then Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre. Traditional winemaking by saignée, the French term meaning 'to bleed', for a wine-making technique which results in a rosé wine made by running off or 'bleeding', a certain amount of free-run juice from just-crushed dark-skinned grapes. Pair this food-destined wine with any summer foods or Mediterranean dishes. A perfect pairing could be grilled pork ribs with a fruit-reduced glaze.

Montes 'Cherub' Rosé, Chile 2006
Price $13.99
Rating 89
It has an intensely pink color. Both on the nose and palate it shows distinctive Syrah (100%) character, with some pepper, wasabi-like spiciness and hints of strawberries along with lively floral flavors. Good fruit concentration leads to a delightfully long finish. A fantastic wine for end of summer gatherings. Consider pairing with shrimp, fish or prosciutto appetizers. It could be perfection with roast pork or ribs without any sweet sauce. Keep the food pairing non-sweet.

I'M Rosé, Napa 2006
Price $14
Rating 86
This Napa Valley Rosé was inspired by and made for Isabel Mondavi by her son Rob. The special relationship shared by Isabel and Rob allows him to interpret and develop her desires into a finished product. Rob is not only the winemaker, but he also came up with the brand name, the 'I'M' are her initials. 'Not new to the wine industry, Isabel has witnessed the business first hand for 39 years and now has designed wines which reflect her own style,' observes a family spokesperson. This Rosé is a dry wine with good structure, acidity, and an enjoyable long finish. There are delicate flavors of cherry and hints of rose petal. The crisp acidity allows for pairing with diverse styles of food. The producers suggest matches such as Thai and other 'haute-Asian cuisines.'

Chandon Rosé, California N.V.
Price $17
Rating 93
In the glass, the color is a dramatic deep pink with a blush of sunset. Intense ripe strawberry, juicy watermelon, and fresh red cherry fruit aromas and flavors are interwoven with apple, pear, and stone fruit. On the palate, the wine is creamy and luscious, with crisp structure. The well-developed fruit and structure of this wine make it a perfect partner with intensely flavored dishes from Asia and Latin America as well as more traditional Mediterranean and continental fare including seafood, shellfish, duck and lamb

Wines that are all in the family
(September 2007)

George Burns said "Happiness is having a large, loving, caring, close-knit family in another city."

The following wineries make fantastic wine and are family-run by caring, close-knit members, conveniently located near Napa, Sonoma or even further away in Santiago, Chile. Nonetheless, it's a family affair.

Someone long ago, in the winery's formation, asked Robert Mondavi if he was, perhaps, overly proud to put his name on the wine label. His answer, paraphrased, "If my name is on the label, the wine will be good."

Winemakers Ed Sbragia (se-Bra-gee-a) is a powerful character; large in stature, but not without grace. Likewise for his Sbragia Family wines. Big Ed Sbragia has made many great wines in his 30-plus years at Beringer Vineyards in Napa. His numerous awards include twice being recognized by The Wine Spectator magazine for creating The Number One Ranked Wine in the World, one year with a Chardonnay then another year with a Cabernet Sauvignon.

"Living in an Italian household, 30 minutes after you are born, a drop of wine is rubbed on your gums," Ed says. One supposes that it gets into the child's blood, and for the Sbragia family, in a big way. Sbragia quickly brought his son, Adam, aged in his late twenties, into his plan of Sbragia Family Vineyards. Ed Sbragia still masters winemaking at Napa's Beringer, but his heart has begun to re-establish roots in Sonoma, that next valley over the mountain range.

Frank Family Vineyards, owned by Rich Frank, former President of Disney Studios, is known as one of Napa Valley's top producers of Cabernet Sauvignons, grown predominantly on Rich Frank's Winston Hill estate in Rutherford.

The Frank Family insists that the tasting room be no-frills and focuses on wine, not t-shirts. They provide one of the few complimentary tastings in the locality, with two separate areas for tasting still and sparkling wines. To quote the Napa Valley Register, "You'll never have a better time—or a better wine—than at Frank Family Vineyards."

Tom Eddy started the Tom Eddy Winery in 1991, with a history of consulting other wineries for years. He initially focused solely on Napa Cabernet, but he's expanding his portfolio to include single vineyard Napa Cabernets, as well as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and small bottlings of Petit Verdot and Malbec. He's announcing a private offering of shares (limited to 1/3 of total ownership) to finance his new winery in Calistoga.

Eddy's wines offer huge expression of flavors, while garnering extremely high scores and even higher prices. Brother Rusty Eddy, a respected West coast wine publicist admits that, though his brother offers a "family discount," of sorts, for the precious bottles, Rusty still fares better on occasion buying his brother's wines at an undisclosed California Safeway location.

The Bartholomaus family created a non-family named winery, simply put as "Big Tattoo Wines," their year-round mission to raise funds for Hospice organizations and Breast Cancer related charities. Started by brothers Erik and Alex Bartholomaus, as a way to honor their mother, while at the same time supporting a worthwhile cause. Liliana S. Bartholomaus died in 2000 to cancer. Capital Hospice in Arlington, Virginia provided invaluable support for the family in a very difficult time.

The project is a collaboration of the brothers' talents. Erik is a tattoo artist and Alex a wine importer. Erik created the label using his own interpretation of Liliana's favorite symbol, the Fleur de Lys. Alex turned to Liliana's native country of Chile to create the wine blend. The project has continued to grow, with "Big Tattoo Wines" now offering the original red blend, a white blend and a Syrah, each maintaining the same charitable mission of donating 50 cents per bottle sold (raising to date close to one million dollars in donations). The bottles retail for around $8.99.

Realize, in closing, that the huge E&J Gallo operation maintains family ownership to this day, with no reason to change things. Though they are as big as big gets in the wine industry, every drop of wine that they produce, in this reviewer's opinion, captures and delivers to various degrees, family pride and quality. Family rules!

Eats meets West - Best Wines for Sushi
(August 2007)

Until recently, the populace of the West, with few glitzy exemptions, viewed sushi as a form of fish bait. No longer so, even in Jackson Hole. But which wines work with sushi? The more traditional wine pairings tend to "sleep with the fish." Sushi requires wine possessing lightness, freshness and a touch of floral and spice. These wines could be from Alsace, or more recently from Spain.

Yoko Sato, a Japanese winemaker working in Spain, studied the challenge and developed a Spanish white wine called Oroya (retails for $10). It is a blend of perhaps obscure white wine grapes called Airen and Macabeo along with the better-known Muscat grape. There are dusty, earthy aromas, then sweet citrus and apricot flavors, wrapped in bright crispness rather than Nori (seaweed).

But we have bigger fish to tie, that is, to wrap in seaweed. What about the wine standing up to the fire of wasabi and the salt of soy? Oroya rises to the occasion. But these are not the toughest part of the food and wine pairing.

"The toughest thing to deal with when developing Oroya was the rice," says Eva Bertran of the wine's importer, Freixenet USA. "Rice has flavor enough to sort of throw the pairing off, plus it attracts other flavors like a sponge." The 2005 Oroya Tierra de Castilla from Spain succeeds, where sushi impedes. Learn more at www.freixenet.com

If not this Spanish adaptation designed specifically for sushi pairing, here follow some perfect options from the Alsace region of France, starting with a sparkling wine.

Alsace Willm Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d' Alsace, NV, is delicate and interesting. It nurtures spice with relish, including wasabi. ($17)

The selections from Alsace continue, now being more special and some being higher priced. Take your sushi selections up a notch or two.

Domaine Barmes-Buecher Pinot Blanc, 2005 provides "air-conditioning in a bottle" as a perfect balance to sushi's possible heat. Sip, not gulp, this delicate white wine. ($14)

Trimbach Riesling, Alsace, 2005, is a predictably dry and exuberant wine that is always well balanced, not ever too dry or tart. This white is a perfect seafood match. ($18)

Domaine Weinbach "Cuvée Sainte Catherine" Riesling, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Alsace 2005. The Cuvée Sainte Catherine consecrated, before the success of "grands crus" in Alsace, the richest Riesling in most vintages. The grapes are picked late (some time around the 25th of November, which just happens to be the day of Sainte Catherine) so that they can enjoy the late autumn sun. Very ripe, but always elegant. ($45)

Paul Zinck Gewürztraminer "Grand Cru Pfersigberg" Alsace, 2003, is richly, no it is intensely concentrated with an array of exotic spices including cardamom and incense . Though it is in distribution within the U.S., the impact is limited. This wine, though well worth the trouble, is hard to find. The price will be worth the wine.

Rules to remember when pairing with sushi are simple, being avoid wines of higher alcohol, then seek crisp acidity and perhaps floral or spice complexities.

Edited by Darryl Beeson

For the 3^rd year in a row, "Burgundy Best Buys" were chosen by a select group of panelists who convened in New York City in April of this year. This prestigious group of wine aficionados blind tasted a diverse array of outstanding wines from Burgundy's acclaimed 2004 and 2005 vintages and then chose their favorites - all retailing between $15 and $35. A perfect balance of reds and whites were selected for their superior quality and extraordinary value from a region mistakenly thought to only produce expensive wines.

The panel of experts included Bernard Sun, Burgundy spokesperson and corporate beverage director for the Jean-Georges Restaurant Group; Louise Owens from the Park Cities and co-owner of the Windmill Lounge; Patrick Fegan from the Chicago Wine School; and Wes Marshall from The Austin Chronicle.

Louise Owens added, "This tasting provided us with a unique opportunity to taste superior quality Burgundies which offer the consumer incredible value at prices everyone can afford. This year's twenty-one Burgundy Best Buys will please the palate and won't burn through your whole paycheck either."

White From $15 to $24.99

Bourgogne, 2004, Faiveley
(Wilson Daniels LTD) $17
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, 2005, Château de Santenay
(Glazer's Wholesale Distributing) $20
Chablis, 2005, Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils
(Frederick Wildman & Sons, LTD) $20
Pouilly-Fuissé, 2005, Maison Louis Latour
(Louis Latour Inc) $19
Pouilly-Fuissé, Domaine de la Collonge, 2005, Gilles Noblet
(Chicago Wine Merchants) $22

White From $25 to $35

Santenay, Les Terrasses de Bievaux, 2005, Domaine Jacques Girardin
(Chicago Wine Merchants) $25
Santenay, Clos de Malte, 2004, Maison Louis Jadot
(Kobrand Corporation) $25
Chablis, 2005, Faiveley
(Wilson Daniels LTD) $29
Chablis 1er Cru, Fourchaume, 2005, Jean Marc Brocard
(Louis Glunz Wines) $31
Mercurey, 2004, Château de Chamirey
(Frederick Wildman & Sons, LTD) $31
Beaune 1er Cru, Beaune du Château, 2004, Bouchard Père & Fils
(Henriot, Inc) $34
Meursault, 2005, Labouré-Roi
(Palm Bay Imports) $35

Red From $15 to $24.99

Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Signature, 2005, Maison Champy
(Fine Vines/Calice Wine Company) $15
Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2005, Maison Louis Jadot
(Kobrand Corporation) $20
Chorey-lès-Beaune, 2005, Maison Joseph Drouhin
(Dreyfus, Ashby & Co) $20

From $25 to $35

Savigny-lès-Beaune, 2005, Domaine Rapet
(Glazer's Wholesale Distributing) $30
Mercurey 1er Cru, Les Champs Martin, 2005, Domaine Adelie
(Eagle Eye Imports) $29
Mercurey, 2004, Château de Chamirey
(Frederick Wildman & Sons, LTD) $31
Mercurey, 2005, Château Genot Boulanger
(Glazer's Wholesale Distributing) $35
Marsannay, Grandes Vignes, 2005, Domaine Bart
(Glazer's Wholesale Distributing) $30
Gevrey-Chambertin, 2005, Labouré-Roi (Palm Bay Imports) $32

Great Texas Border Hotel Recognized

La Posada, the historic hotel on the banks of the Rio Grande in Laredo, Texas, has been named the "Best Hotel" by the Texas Department of Transportation's travel counselors as a result of their Texas Travel Industry Association (TTIA)-sponsored study tour of South Texas. The hotel was also presented with TTIA's "Best Dinner" award for its refined Tesoro Club restaurant, singled out for its Sunday Champagne Brunch and dinner, and for exceptional customer service.

La Posada recently completed an extensive $15 million makeover that combines the hotel's historic Spanish influence and colonial architecture with floor-to-ceiling renovations. "We are very proud of our hotel, especially with the renovations, and are delighted to be recognized by the State of Texas' travel industry," said Gene Belmares , La Posada's Director of Sales & Marketing.

La Posada, located at 1000 Zaragoza Street in the historic district of downtown Laredo, offers authentic Spanish contemporary design, furniture by local artisans, fine artwork, and luxurious finishes throughout. While the original 1916 façade remains the same, the hotel's reconstruction runs the gamut from a newly-designed lobby and contemporary Spanish public spaces, to beautifully-restored guestrooms with elegant interiors, spectacular courtyards and grounds, and updated technology throughout. For hotel reservations, contact the hotel directly at 956-722-1701 or toll-free at 800-444-2099. For additional information or to book online, visit www.laposadahotel.com.
 

"Wines of the greatest quality are always an expression of the terroir from which they originate," explains winemaker Stéphane Vivier. "These great wines are not created in the winery." Established in 2000, HdV stands for Hyde de Villaine, a partnership between the Hyde family of Napa/Carneros and the Villaine family of Burgundy.

Aubert de Villaine, married to the Hyde's cousin, Pamela F. de Villaine, is one of Burgundy's most recognized players. As the proprietor of his own wine, A. & P. de Villaine, and as co-director of the important Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Aubert has spent his years with viticultural and enological practices. Though tradition and history may run heavily in his veins, his uncompromising desire to experiment and learn has brought him to the Napa Valley to work with his cousins.

Aubert was introduced to the wines of California in 1964, when he spent six months in the Napa Valley and interviewed Robert Mondavi for articles Aubert would write for the French Magazine Revue du Vin de France. At the time, Mondavi was the only one who had the vision for California and predicted the incredible growth that California would achieve. Aubert's interest to participate in the creation of HdV can partly be attributed to these times when he had the opportunity to share Robert Mondavi's vision during the long hours spent with Mondavi in his wagon at Charles Krug Winery. Learn more at www.hdvwines.com.

HdV Chardonnay, Carneros 2004
Price $55
Rating 96

Calera selection is certainly the heart and soul of the wine. With excellent natural acidity and the Hyde Vineyards' defining mineral qualities, the Calera selection lends the freshness and crisp structure. This Chardonnay shows layers of stone fruit and mineral character with peach, citrus and honeysuckle notes.

The length is rich and very long, powerful like a "velvet hammer" throughout. Serve this white wine with thick, flame seared salmon steaks, or with sautéed veal in a rich butter and truffle laced sauce. This wine is crisp and well suited for complex foods.

HdV Syrah, Carneros 2004
Price $60
Rating 95

Scents of exotic aromas, textures and the rich color of HdV's Syrah are impressive. "A mélange of characteristics develop from the four clonal selections," explains winemaker Stéphane Vivier. "The wine is 100 percent Syrah; 50 percent of the grapes are fermented in open-top fermenters (to give elegance and balance) and 50 percent in closed top (to impart Syrah's distinctive austerity). The components are then blended in February and aged in 35 to 40 percent new French oak for 13 months (principally cooperages Rousseau and François Frères) and use of 30 percent puncheon barrel aging. Beginning with the 2004 vintage, the wine is unfined and unfiltered."

From one of the oldest farming families in California, Larry Hyde came to the Napa Valley more than 30 years ago with a great love of wine and the soil. Larry first attended University of California, Berkeley, before moving onto University of California, Davis, to study chemistry. Larry got his first wine industry job as a vineyard worker at Ridge Vineyards in 1970, and in 1972, he bought a small wine press (from the owners of a small vineyard in Woodside) to explore home winemaking. Over the next five years, he worked for several respected wineries gaining experience. In 1977, Larry left his job as a cellar worker at Joseph Phelps to purchase and transform the Carneros soils into what is now known as Hyde Vineyards. Nearly three decades later, Hyde Vineyards has become renowned for the unique expression of its Carneros terroir.

HdV Proprietary Red, Carneros 2003
Price $60
Rating 97

This is a "Right Bank" Bordeaux inspiration, being predominately Merlot and blended with perhaps 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dependable black cherry leads in the nose with complex mineral aspects. A sip shows the velvety tannins to be powerful, but in balance in the crisp array of fruit flavors. This powerful red will require time to show its stuff. At this point, decant and let the wine breathe for a bit. Otherwise, give it a few years in the cellar.

"This wine is shaped by the winds of the Carneros which encourage transpiration of water from the fruit. This transpiration concentrates both the acidity and flavors that, in turn, create structure and a capacity for aging not often found in California wines," boasts winemaker Stéphane Vivier. Each selection is vinified individually, each seeing approximately 45-55 percent new French oak (cooperages: François Frères, Saint-Martin and Taransaud) for six months before the final blend is created and aged in 25 percent new French oak for approximately 12 months. The wine is gently fined and unfiltered prior to bottling."

Joining the HdV venture in 2002, winemaker Vivier brings refined skills in vineyard management and winemaking from around the world. Born in 1974 and raised in Meloisey, a small village near Saint-Romain in France's Burgundy region, Stéphane's skills were cultivated in the vineyards and cellars of Pommard, Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet and further expanded through his work in Switzerland, New Zealand and finally in California's Sonoma Coast.

"The secret at Hyde Vineyards is its terroir - the vineyard produces ripe grapes with vibrant acidity, soft tannins and a distinctive minerality," says Vivier. "In Carneros, we make wines with the acids. Up valley, wines are made with the tannins."

HdV is bottled under the label that bears the coat of arms of the historic de la Guerra family from which Pamela Fairbanks de Villaine and the Hydes descend. De la Guerra is one of the oldest families in California and can trace its winemaking back to a gold medal received at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Fair.
 

Guest column edited by Darryl Beeson

Where are top chefs and cooking schools looking to find new inspiration, from wine to food? Spain. This past Fall, two of the most prestigious cooking schools in the U.S., the French Culinary Institute (now the International Culinary Center) in New York City, and the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa, CA, dedicated major symposiums on Spanish wine and food for students, chefs, media and culinary educators. Spain's most innovative chefs and winemakers flew in to conduct detailed workshops, inspiring wine tastings, and dramatic cooking demonstrations. Both events drew capacity audiences.

Michael Green, wine and spirits consultant for Gourmet Magazine and a frequent lecturer on wine concludes that Spanish wines have reached, what he calls, "the sipping point."

"Spanish wines are no longer in the back corner of a wine shop, or on the last page of a restaurant wine list. They are taking front and center," said Green. "Today Spanish wines can be found in restaurants serving Asian, Indian, French and contemporary American food. Spanish wines continue to deliver excellent value, and now even more variety, as shipments from up and coming wine regions of Spain make their way to restaurant and retailers throughout the U.S."

The U.S. Department of Commerce reported that exports of Spanish wines to the U.S. have increased 17% (as of August 31, 2006), and total imports of Spanish wines have increased 100% since 2000.

"While Spanish wines are increasingly "hot" in the U.S., the rise in popularity has not happened overnight," says Katrin Naelapaa, director of Wines from Spain, a division of the Trade Commission of Spain in New York City. "The process has been evolutionary with most of these developments taking place over the last two decades."

The third largest wine producing country in the world, Spain has been producing wine since 300 B.C. Historically, Spanish wines were a bit too "old world" meaning aged for long periods of time, perhaps in a tired, so-called traditional style.

"While these wines have always been appreciated by the wine cognoscenti, they are just the tip of the iceberg in terms of where Spanish wines are today," said Naelapaa. "In the late 20^th century, a new, young and very talented generation of winemakers started experimenting with modern wine making techniques and cultivating very old varieties of Spanish grapes. These new styles of Spanish wines were full of flavor and fruit, and they added a new depth and dimension to Spain's wine culture. Regions like Toro, Priorat and Bierzo have now become as fashionable for their fragrant red wines, as their more famous cousins, Rioja and Ribera del Duero."

Another development, according to Naelapaa, is the small and influential group of wine importers who have dedicated all or a major portion of their portfolios to carrying quality Spanish wines from various regions.

"You also can't discount the fact that the most famous chef in the world, Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, is from Spain," added wine consultant Michael Green. Spain has become a mecca for those who travel to eat. U.S. chefs have been flocking to Spain to seek culinary inspiration from chefs like Adrià, Juan Mari Arzak, the father of modern Spanish cuisine, and Paco Torreblanca, the ground-breaking pastry chef. The results here in the U.S. are more Spanish-inspired menus, from tapas restaurants to the use of Spanish cooking techniques and ingredients, including piquillo peppers, sherry wine vinegar, Spanish olives, and white anchovies.

"Not since Columbus' voyage to America has the influence of Spain been this strong on these shores, at least on the culinary frontier," said Naelapaa.

Wines from Spain, a division of the Trade Commission of Spain, aims to create greater awareness and increased sales of Spanish wines in the U.S. through promotional and educational activities focused on both trade and consumers. It is the primary information source on Spanish wines for wine professionals, media and consumers www.winesfromspainusa.com.

Spanish wines-the facts

According to Michael Green, wine and spirits consultant for Gourmet Magazine, there are four things every savvy consumer should know about Spanish wines:

• 1. "Cava: The Ultimate Champagne Stunt Double" - Spain is the largest producer of sparkling wine in the world. Cava, which is produced in the classic méthode champenoise, is Spain's official sparkling wine, produced in the northeast DO Pénédes region above Barcelona. Cava, like any sparkling wine, should not be served just for special occasions. It can be enjoyed through an entire meal, from start to finish.

• 2. "You Can Call Me 'Sherry'"- Sherry is the most under-appreciated and under-valued wine in the world. Sherry is only made in Spain, in the southeast region of Andalucia, which is also famous for its tapas, Spain's little dishes usually served with a dry fino sherry. With styles that can range from bone dry (fino) to rich and nutty (amontillado) to lusciously sweet (oloroso), sherry is a great wine to enjoy throughout the year and, especially, with holiday dishes from roasted winter vegetables to pumpkin pie. Says Green, "Looking for an 'adult' hot fudge sundae? Throw some rich sweet Pedro Jiménez (PX) sherry over vanilla ice cream."

• 3. "10 Spot" - There is no wine region in the world that can compete with Spain when it comes to quality, diversity and value, from mouth-watering white wines like Albarino, which pair well with seafood dishes, to fruit- forward Crianza Rioja wines that pair well with roast chicken or salmon. Says Green, "In a world of homogenized wine production, Spain produces distinct wines at great price points."

• 4. "Life Beyond Rioja" Green says that while Rioja is indeed still Spain's "red wine ambassador," there are dozens of other Denominations of Origen (DO's) that offer complex and compelling wines with distinct styles and flavors that reflect the local grapes and terroir of their regions. According to Green, up-and-coming "sleeper" regions not to be missed include the wines of Bierzo, Somontano, Jumilla and Yecla.
  
  

Bordeaux- the name evokes status and maybe Old World class. The region rests on the 45th parallel and the prime meridian. This, being spring, could be the perfect time to enjoy soft, elegant reds and crisp, vibrant whites. Exchange rates are not so good, but genuine values still exist.

The Bordeaux Wine Bureau has announced "Today's Bordeaux", a list of 100 classic, contemporary, affordable wines. The list of 100 wines offers cool whites, balanced reds , and even a sweet wine, all priced between $8 and $25. "Today's Bordeaux's 100" wines are readily available across the country and offer value and a wine that fits perfectly on the American table, with balance and finesse.

Pick up one of these 18 crisp Sauvignon Blanc blends:

2004 St. Savin, Bordeaux, $8.99
2004 Mouton Cadet Blanc, Bordeaux, $8.99
2006 Dourthe Barrel Select, Bordeaux, $9.99
2005 Premius Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, $10.00
2005 La Vigne d'Argent, Bordeaux, $10.00
2006 Château Bonnet, Entre Deux Mers, $11.00
2006 Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux, $11.99
2005 Mascaron, Bordeaux, $11.99
2005 Château Jacquet Cuvée Prestige Entre Deux Mers, $12.00
2005 Dourthe No 1, Bordeaux, $12.99
2005 Château Sansey, Graves, $13.00
2005 Château Ducla, Entre Deux Mers, $13.00
2005 Château Tour de Mirambeau, Bordeaux, $14.99
2005 Vieux Château Gaubert, Graves, $16.99
2005 Château Chantegrive, Graves, $17.00
2004 Chateau Villa Bel-Air, Graves: $21.00

A good shopkeeper can find other value priced Bordeaux wines, given the chance.

If grilling some burgers, open one of the 83 balanced versatile Cabernet/Merlot blends offered on the website list. Or pair the sweet white wine Castelnau de Suduiraut from Sauternes ($18.99) with a bowl of fresh fruit on a spring day. Visit www.bordeauxwinebureau.org to view the "Today's Bordeaux" list.

Grills gone wild

Are you still making grilling mistakes? Tom Perini, a cook for current Presidents and Kings (as in the King Ranch), based at the Perini Ranch Steakhouse in Buffalo Gap, Texas (ten miles South of Abilene) has a few secrets.

First, too many amateurs come in below the heat radar. Inflame your coals or wood chips (his favorite, dried Mesquite) then let the fire subside. "Hold your hand one inch above the grill", says Perini. "If you can keep your hand there for three seconds, the grill is not hot enough."

His biggest secret is the herbal rub applied to, in this case, a sirloin steak. Combine one tsp. (teaspoon) dried oregano, one tsp. dried thyme, one tsp. paprika, one tsp. salt, half a tsp. garlic powder, half a tsp. onion powder, half a tsp. white pepper, half a tsp. black pepper, and a quarter tsp. ground red pepper. Combine the ingredients and then rub this upon the surface of the meat before grilling. Serve with grilled peppers and seared green onion.

"Once you have the proper heat, you must factor in hangover heat," adds Perini, referring to the other end of the heat spectrum, "Meat keeps cooking after removal from the grill. Take the steak off a couple of minutes before you think that it looks done." Otherwise, you are just serving leather.

For further culinary success, serve this sizzlin' sirloin with Fess Parker Winery's Syrah, Santa Barbara ($18-20), or their complex, blackberry laced "Rodney's Vineyard" ($38-40). The coonskin cap is, of course, optional.

Talk about an identity crisis. Beauzeaux is a red wine blend made from eight different grape varietals. "And, with a name like Beauzeaux," says winemaker Bob Masyczek (ma-CHES-key), "we knew it had to be good." Or at least fun. My curiosity is peaked.

Masyczek explains that he was playing around in the cellar, mostly with Zinfandel and Syrah, as well as small amounts of Petite Sirah, Charbono, Grenache and others, when he hit upon the perfect mix. "Show (this wine) off to your wine geek friends when you tell them it also contains two percent Lagrein, a red grape variety mentioned in the 17^th century records of a Benedictine monastery," suggests Masyczek. "I think wine lovers will be delighted by the wine's ruby red color, its aromas of red raspberry, spicy black pepper and cinnamon and its juicy ripe black cherry flavors and lingering finish. I made this wine to entertain all the senses." And to pull a few legs, I bet.

"While the blended wine in each bottle of Beauzeaux will surely put a smile on your face, so will the package" adds Masyczek. "Beauzeaux is bottled with a "four act" label. Each features an illustration of a whimsical French juggler in different positions. Keeping with the theme, each bottle comes with four easy-to-learn parlor tricks, perfect pizza night entertainment for wine lovers and friends. Nothing but a screwcap would do to preserve the wine's lush aromas and fresh style. No joke, a screwcap is handy at picnics."

This Zinfandel-based mix of varietals is a moderately rich and fairly concentrated wine with nuances of dark, dried fruits and a bit of mocha. It is smooth on the palate with a good length. Serve this soft red with pizza. Usually, tomato sauce conflicts with many red wines, unless there is enough acidity within the wine. This fun red steps up to the plate with barbecue, burgers, gourmet-styled meatloaf or perhaps pasta and meatballs.

Wine lovers are showing a fondness for red wine blends. According to IRI data, sales of California red wine blends in the United States increased 50 percent in 2005. Beauzeaux is offered nationally at a suggested retail price of $9.99. Beauzeaux wines are vinted and bottled by Beaulieu Vineyard, part of Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines

This fun red blend has a rich history. In May 1900 Georges de Latour purchased four acres of land in Rutherford, in the heart of Napa Valley, as for his wife, Fernande. When she saw the property, Fernande exclaimed "Quel beau lieu!" …French for "what a beautiful place!" Beaulieu Vineyard, as it was immediately named, has been a leader in Napa ever since, whether by introducing methods of fighting phylloxera in the first years of the twentieth century, surviving prohibition by making sacramental wines or by bringing legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff to California. Tchelistcheff, revolutionized winemaking in the United States, demonstrating at Beaulieu Vineyard that America can make world class wines. Today, Joel Aiken and Jeffrey Stambor, both of whom worked with Tchelistcheff, continue to lead B.V.'s winemaking tradition.

Beauzeaux Winemaker Bob Masyczek has spent many years developing his skills and refining the craft of making wine. Since 1980, when he entered the enology program at the University of California Davis, he demonstrated that he was committed to understanding all elements of fine winemaking. Remaining at Davis as a teaching and research assistant for several years before packing off to New Zealand and Australia, where he studied warm- and cool-climate viticulture while working at several different wineries. He returned to California in 1984 to work for Grgich Cellars. He also attracted much attention as a winemaker for Clos Pegase and assistant winemaker at Cuvaison. Recently, he completed his MBA from UC Davis by attending night classes in Sacramento for 3 years. His numerous years of winemaking experience, coupled with his international winemaking stints, give him not only the solid background for the serious side of winemaking, but the innovative personality to bring a wine like Beauzeaux to life.

Beauzeaux is a fun blend. Don't contemplate; just drink the stuff.

Located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Washington State wine "Touring" country includes 9 federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVA's), commonly known as appellations; three of them share territory with Oregon State. Climates of individual Washington wine regions differ dramatically, being cross cut north to south by the Cascade Mountains.

A variety of climates and soils combine with the long summer sunlight hours of northern latitudes to create prime growing regions, predominantly in the valleys and on the hillsides of areas east of the Cascade Mountain range. Washington wineries benefit from grapes ripening in these areas which experience about two more hours of summer sunlight each day than in California wine regions. Gradually cooling autumn temperatures in Washington also help wine grapes reach full maturity, while maintaining desirable acid levels.

Vineyards on the east side of the Cascades grow 99% of Washington's wine grapes. Seven of the state's eight official AVA/appellations are located here -- the macro appellation of the Columbia Valley encompasses the smaller Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills (Washington State's newest appellation). The Columbia Gorge AVA begins at the western edge of the Columbia Valley AVA and continues west and south to areas along the Columbia River in both Oregon and Washington. Two other emerging regions benefit from the huge rain shadow created by the Cascade Mountains, the North-Central Washington region (often referred to as the Columbia Cascade region) and the Lake Chelan area (AVA application in process).

All totaled, Washington wine regions produce more wine grapes than any other state in the U.S., except California. Wine grapes are now the fourth most important fruit crop in Washington State behind apples, cherries and pears. The following wines are in limited distribution. Look for them when in Washington state.

Griffins Crossing Cabernet Blend, Columbia Valley 2004
Price $22
Rating 87
The nose offers black cherry, cranberry and freshly tilled top-soil from the garden. The sip is soft, perhaps a bit diluted. Serve with firm fleshed fish, sautéed, or with make chicken laced with rosemary. More details are at www.griffinscrossing.com.

XSV Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2003
Price $18
Rating 90
The nose gives cinnamon, banana, pear and vanilla laced within toasty oak. The sip is soft and expansive with more tropical fruit and brown spice within the good length. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.

XSV Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2002
Price $23
Rating 92
The nose is somber and reserved with black fruit and nuances of earth. There are flavors of black fruit, mocha and more earth in the elegant, long length. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.

Willow Crest "Rocking Red" Yakima Valley 2003
Price $10
Rating 88
The nose is spicy with wild-like berry fruit. The sip is light and bright with cranberry and tart plum. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.

Willow Crest Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley 2005
Price $10
Rating 90
The nose displays crisp, citrus-like fruit and mineral. The style is a little more delicate than the Pinot Gris from Oregon. The sip is refreshing and interesting with different layers in the medium long length. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.

Roza Ridge Vineyards Merlot, Yakima Valley 2002
Price $19 estimated
Rating 86
A sniff reveals earthy notes with briar-patch fruit nuances. The sip is very light with raspberry and mocha notes. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish.

Whitman Cellars "Narcissa" Red Wine, Walla Walla 2003
Price $28
Rating 92
The blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 20% Syrah, aged 18 months in French and American barrels. The nose offers soft earth and slight hints of dark fruit. There are flavors of blackberry, black cherry; baker's chocolate and mineral in the long, delicate length.

This wine is named for Narcissa Whitman, a frontier-woman and wife of missionary Marcus Whitman. She and another woman were the first Caucasian women to cross the Rocky Mountains and settle in what is now Walla Walla, Washington (1836). Visit the website at www.whitmancellars.com.

Pentin del Roza White Riesling, Yakima Valley 2005
Price $13
Rating 89
The sip is driven by subtle green apple and mineral. The wine is chewy and complex on the palate.

Sandhill Merlot, Red Mountain 2002
Price $26
Rating 91
The nose is somber and complex with ripe plum and mineral. The sip is delicate with dark fruit, mocha and mineral in the medium to good length.

This is sort-of a Heid and Sieck story, but you must pay the Piper. Competing with the best of Champagne Houses (i.e. Moët, Veuve, Pommery, Mumm, Feuillate and many more), realize that the standards are extremely high.

Piper-Heidsieck delivers top greatness with a top value. This is what it takes to be considered by www.wineontheweb.com as Winery of the Year for 2007.

Now the history. Florens-Louis Heidsieck, the son of a Lutheran minister from Westphalia, worked in Reims, France, as a cloth merchant. Heidsieck developed a passion for winemaking and began making his own Champagne. Although he was neither a viticulturist, nor a Reims' native, this fellow had a knack.

On July 16, 1785, Florens-Louis Heidsieck stepped forward to establish his own Champagne House. Establishing rigorous standards and making sure that only the best grapes were used in his blends, these attentions-to-details enabled him to create an outstanding Champagne that was highly respected. Heidsieck wisely dedicated one of his Champagnes to Queen Marie-Antoinette and was granted the honor of presenting her with a symbolic bottle. "Let them eat cake," she might have said, "while I will drink fabulous Champagne." Maybe not.

In October 1838, the two destined names came closer together when Henri Piper married Christian Heidsieck's widow. From this point, two great Champagne producers were connected at the "sip."

Continuing to move forward, on January 1st 1851, Henri Piper teamed up with his cousin J.C. Kunkelmann, founding things in Reims in 1851.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck has become renowned as one of the most prestigious houses in Champagne. They continue to be recognized for their elegant, rich style. For the House's centenary in 1885, they commissioned Fabergé, the celebrated jeweller to the Russian imperial court, to make a gold, lapis lazuli and diamond ornament to adorn the special champagne created for the occasion.

Family members continue to rule. When J.C. Kunkelmann died, his son succeeded him. Then his daughter and son-in-law took over the business, and the House remained in the family. In 1985, Piper-Heidsieck staged a two hundredth anniversary celebration at the Château de Versailles. In 1997, Piper-Heidsieck took the decision to use the color red to highlight its bold and innovative personality. The whole history is at www.piper-heidsieck.com.

To better appreciate the house's quality, realize that a relationship developed between the Piper-Heidsieck partnership and the grapegrowers from around 180 villages, some of whom have supplied grapes to this renowned Champagne House for several generations. Piper-Heidsieck has one of the largest selections of Crus, which represents all the essential nuances of the Champagne terroir and includes both Grands Crus and Premiers Crus.

Charles Heidsieck "Blanc des Millénaires" Brut Vintage 1995
Price $95
Rating 95
The complex nose offers stewed fruit with exotic spice, the flavors of marzipan and roasted almond.

This Blanc de Blancs is one of the most celebrated champagnes in the world.  Made with five of the best growths from the Côte des Blancs -- Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Vertus, Cramant and Avize. This exquisite wine is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, only produced in small quantities in years of exceptional quality.

Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV
Price $95
Rating 94
The grapes used to make Brut Réserve are selected from the top Crus in the Champagne region. Each bottle of Brut Réserve contains an extraordinary 40% of reserve wines. Pinot Noir 34%, Chardonnay 33%, Pinot Meunier 33%.

Notes of fully ripe fruit, such as nectarines and cherry plums are apparent initially. The finish reveals hints of nougat, honey and cereal grains. This wine is remarkably smooth and generous on the palate. Three years of maturation have given it body and substance. As the wine opens up, it is full and intense with notes of warm bread blending harmoniously with discreet notes of ginger and coriander.

Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé Vintage 1999
Price $80
Rating 94
Fresh notes of strawberries, building intensity with hints of soft pepper, fresh vanilla, exotic sandalwood, along with vast floral. Red fruit, strawberries, tart r