Blend

California, Mendocino

Red

12

89

6/25/2003

A search for "old vine" on the Wine Spectator Magazine web site returns over 200 results. "The number of wineries promoting 'old vines' on their labels has increased dramatically over the past ten years," says Lolonis Winery vice president and general manager Phillip Lolonis, "but there really aren't any standards for how old is old."
Lolonis Winery used the "old vines" moniker on its labels for the first time this year, but the family started growing grapes in Mendocino County's Redwood Valley in the 1920s. They still make wine from vineyards planted in the 1950s. "We used some of the oldest Carignane and Zinfandel vines in Redwood Valley this year to make a blend we call Ladybug Red," said Lolonis, "so I felt it was indeed time to put 'old vines' on the label."
Carignane is a late-ripening red grape that many Italian immigrants in Mendocino County historically used (along with Zinfandel) to make their simple red table wines. Back when wine quantity was more important than wine quality, Carignane's high yields often made it the choice for producing every-day reds. But as grapevines age, yields decline, concentrating flavors and making better wine. Most of the California wines labeled as "old vines" are made from Zinfandel or Carignane.
The lower yields of old vines, sometimes as low as one ton or less per acre (compared with up to 10 tons per acre for young vines in some growing areas), mean that the grapes are proportionally more expensive. "But it makes sense to spend more to get more concentrated flavors," says Lolonis. Lolonis' Ladybug Red is 68% old vine Carignane. Ladybug Red is named for the ladybugs that Lolonis Winery releases in the vineyard every year to help control aphids and scale insects. It is velvety and fruit forward, going well with most any brunch dish or maybe pasta. This wine sells out quickly at the winery, so watch for it when released into limited distribution. As an organic grape grower since the 1950s, Lolonis is opposed to the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. More information is at www.lolonis.com (help in this review was provided by Rusty Eddy).

Review by Darryl Beeson